So after about the last 6 months of hitting the dash board and by the ignition colum in order to get the security system to reset so the van would start and the guages to work, we stopped at a place and I locked the van and the alarm went off and i could not get it to stop until I disconnected the battery. I also smelled smoke after i disconnected the battery and it would not run so we had it towed. Then a few days later it would run again but the gauges wouldn't work and the problemsare still there. I also noticed that the vanwill start some times, and other timesafter it kills thefirst time, I turn the key to on and tap on the cluster gauge until the transmission gauge lights thenI canturn the key toon then start it and it willrun. However, other times it'llrun for like 2 seconds then it will shut off, and it will do this 4 times then, the van locks out and it will not start for at least 4 hours after. I have read a few posts about fixing the solder joint. Can anyone tell me where it is, and how to fix it? Thanks!

 

You will need to remove the instrument cluster and the circuit off the back and it’s the solder joints for the electrical plug that you need to solder. Sound like it is your fault but you can confirm before and after repair by just wiggling the plug on the back of the dash and the fault will come and go.

 

Update on non-starting or starts and dies 2000 Chrysler Town & Country van with 3.8L engineandOD transmission. The BCM was replaced about 3 months ago as the first try at fixing the starting issues. It was a dealer supplied part and did not make a difference.I removed the cluster, inspected the curcuit board and did not see any breaks in the solder or wiring. Since then I have purchased a cluster at a salvage yard andswapped it. The new-used cluster did not have any gauges or indicator lights either. As before thevan would turnover, start and die after a few seconds. I did notice if Iput upward pressure on the plug, the gauges, odometer and PRN32 indicator lights all worked on either cluster and the car started and ran. I also noticed the steering wheel lock doesn't lock and the horn blares continuously. I went back to the salvage yard and bought a new cluster plug and spliced it in.I tried both clusters and now neither works, pressure applied or not. It seems like the security system is locking out the gauges, odometer, indicator lights and causing the horn to blare. Is there an interlock between the steering wheel lock and the security system? I also removed the key cylinder and the ignition switch. Is there a way to test either one? Any other thoughts? Thanks for the help.

 

I would say you have 2 faulty curcuit boards.

 

I tried the diagnostic trick on the dash. I recieved codes 1,2,4,5,7 and 55. The single digit codes are not in my Haynes book. I know that 55 is the end of the diagnostic cycle. If I hold pressure on the new spliced plug, both dashes light up and the gauges work. As soon as I release the pressure, the dash stops working. If I start the car without holding the plug it starts, runs for a few seconds then dies. If I start the car while holding the plug it starts and runs. After it starts, if I let go of the plug, the engine continues to run. Any thoughts or suggestions. Thanks

 

This is a common problem to the 96-01 models.

The dashboard circuit board overheats, causing problems.

The gauges then cease to work and the immobiliser cuts in.

Symptoms are gauges cutting out (engine still running) and the engine cutting out after 2 seconds if trying to start.

Only way round it is to disconnect battery and wait 15 minutes for the immobiliser to reset.

New circuit boards are expensive (around $400), so a cheap solution is one from a breakers yard. As with anything electrical that could be an unreliable source though as it is a very common problem with this model car (could be the reason the car is in the junkyard!).

 

I purchased a 2nd used instrument cluster from a salvage yard and it did the trick. Thanks Merlin for your suggestion!!!

 

hello i have the same problem,,car starts then shuts off ,no noise or flashing lights let sit couple hours will restart,,, i took out the cluster ,,resoldered the plug base ,(it did have broken solder joints ) ,,replaced it back in the van,great for 2 weeks now it pull the security problem it seems everyday ,,i dont see any problems with the gauges,, or lights ,,it just simply wont stay running ,it will start then shut off 4 times then immobilizer kicks in ,, ??if i try and unlock the doors to reset the factory alarm, they will relock them selves????? HELP!!!,,

 

hello i have the same problem,,car starts then shuts off ,no noise or flashing lights let sit couple hours will restart,,, i took out the cluster ,,resoldered the plug base ,(it did have broken solder joints ) ,,replaced it back in the van,great for 2 weeks now it pull the security problem it seems everyday ,,i dont see any problems with the gauges,, or lights ,,it just simply wont stay running ,it will start then shut off 4 times then immobilizer kicks in ,, ??if i try and unlock the doors to reset the factory alarm, they will relock them selves????? HELP!!!,,