I have read on this site that the dash panel needs to be removed to get to the blower motor under the glove box? Is that right? I do have a Haynes manual (not technically a fsm) but it does say that the dash panel has to be removed. I know Chrysler Tech knows...does the entire dash pad have to come off to get to the motor for replacement? I have a blown relay (fan works on high) and the motor squeals. Anyway, would appreciate a heads-up before I get into it... thanks....

 

u are in luck the 02 was made a bit different

REMOVAL
WARNING: On vehicles equipped with airbags, disable the airbag system before attempting any steering wheel, steering column, or instrument panel component diagnosis or service. Disconnect and isolate the battery negative (ground) cable, then wait two minutes for the airbag system capacitor to discharge before performing further diagnosis or service. This is the only sure way to disable the airbag system. Failure to take the proper precautions could result in an accidental airbag deployment and possible personal injury or death.

NOTE: The blower motor is located on the passenger side of the vehicle under the instrument panel. The blower motor can be removed from the vehicle without having to remove the HVAC housing.

Disconnect and isolate the negative battery cable.
Remove the passenger side cowl trim panel (Refer to 23 - BODY/INTERIOR/COWL TRIM - REMOVAL).
Position the carpet to access the front upper screw that secures the air inlet housing (Lower Air Inlet Housing).
Remove the recirculation door actuator (Refer to 24 - HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING/CONTROLS - FRONT/RECIRCULATION DOOR ACTUATOR - REMOVAL).
Disconnect the blower motor wire lead connector from the blower motor resistor or power module, depending on application.
Remove the one screw (from the top) that secures the lower air inlet housing to the upper air inlet housing.
Remove the four screws (from the bottom) that secure the lower air inlet housing to the upper air inlet housing and the lower HVAC housing.
Push the rubber grommet through the opening in the lower air inlet housing (Blower Motor Wire Lead Grommet).
Route the blower motor wire lead through the opening in the lower air inlet housing and remove the lower air inlet housing from the vehicle.
Position the recirculation-air door as necessary to access and remove the three screws that secure the blower motor to the lower half of the HVAC housing (Blower Motor Mounting Tabs).
Gently flex the recirculation-air door downward to gain access to remove the blower motor from the HVAC housing.
NOTE: To aid in installation, note the position of the blower motor mounting tabs prior to removal.

Remove the blower motor from the HVAC housing by rotating and tilting the blower motor as necessary

 

The guide above is good, just a couple of things to keep in mind.

My blower issue started with an occasional high pitched squeal on the higher speeds. The squealing increased in volume and time over a couple of weeks, and then even on the low fan speed. Failing bearings.

I found it easier if I removed the glove box. Took about 15 seconds. Open it, push the rear sides (where the stop bumpers are) inward. The door will swing toward you. Then, starting at one end, you can walk the box off its "hinges".

My screws are 8 mm hex head.

The recirculation door actuator is located on the bottom outside of the lower air inlet housing (think of it as the fan housing). Two thin wires run from it, and it is mounted with just 2 screws. It turns the panel ("door") which directs where the air will flow when you set the right hand climate control **** to vent, or floor, or defrost. This door is inside the fan housing. I had to move the door back and forth to remove/install the replacement blower, so I thought it important to keep the actuator sprocket and door shaft in the same position during reassembly. I turned the **** all the way to vent (far counter-clockwise, or left, position), which put the door in the far counter-clockwise position - when viewed from the bottom of the fan housing, looking up. After removing the actuator you will find the door shaft at the bottom of the fan housing. Push the shaft upward into the fan housing to separate the two. I did this after removing the lower housing.

The screw that mounts from the top (used a box wrench) is on the right, toward the back of the housing. The front being the front of the car.

Now my BIG problem. Three of the 4 screws mounted from the bottom are easy to access (used socket driver). But that 4th... what would have been a well-under-an-hour-job turned into more than 2 hours. The 4th screw is located pretty much at the front of the housing, that is, on the far side of the housing from your vantage. The wheel-well and firewall come together and are covered with 1/2"+ of insulation. I wasn't able to get a socket driver perpendicular to the screw - hex head and no slots. And there's not enough room for a box wrench or pliers. I was barely able to reach it with 2 finger tips on my left hand. I removed the insulation but still could not get a good bite on the hex-head screw. I ended up going to a tool supply store any buying a flexible shaft socket/screw driver. In my case I also had to buy quick release sockets to fit the flexible shaft. Total cost $9 plus tax. And I have a tool I will use again. It was still difficult to remove, but with a lot of force on the tip of the driver handle - and flexing the driver shaft - I was able to get the socket perpendicular to the screw and remove it in a couple of minutes.

I found the blower with fan attached for $65 plus tax, one year warranty, at a local parts house. Auto Zone quoted me $50 +T w/o the fan, lifetime warranty. BTW, the fan is plastic mounted on the blower's metal shaft. O'Rielley's quoted $86 +T, fan attached, one year warranty.

Install and reassembly took less than 15 minutes. Works like new.

 

Just to clarify, I have an 02 Chrysler Voyager eC, 4cly.

 

I would add to this that reassembly is a large PITA!! Getting the blend door up into place was a major challenge. The blend door has a nipple on the top that has to fit into a hole in the hvac housing, it was impossible to keep the nipple in the hole and then install the blower motor and lower cover. What I ended up doing was to remove the upper dash cover, just pop the two A pillar covers and pop up the dash cover, remove the right side speaker and then you can see the hvac unit and the hole that the blend door needs to fit into.

With the blower removed and the blend door pulled down as far as it can go I drilled a small hole in the nipple (it is hollow) that is on the top of the blend door, I then threaded a piece of mechanics wire through the hole in the nipple and up through the hole in the top of the hvac unit, bend the wire over on the inside of the blend door and on the outside of the hvac unit, the wire will now hold the door in place while you reinstall the blower motor and the lower cover. I left out the PITA screw that up against the fire wall. Pull out the mechanics wire and you are done!!