Hello, First post here. On a 2006 T&C having some electrical issues.
1st all dash lights went out while driving. Still was able to start van serveral times and drive. Then van would just start for a coulpe of seconds and quit. Now the van will not start and still no dash lights, just a light click from the relay under hood. Battery is good. Dash lights all work when you press the trip distance button for more than 10 seconds. That starts out with codes 100.1, 100.2, 100.3, and 100.6. Then it goes through all the testing of numbers and misc lights. I am not able to find any information on the these E#s on the web. Maybe you can help me. I have seen alot of problems like this on older vans on the web where it is a bad solder joint in the dash. Does a 2006 have the same issue? Alos the remote keys will not unlock/lock the doors. I have tried removeing one battery cable for 20 minutes or so then reatching but still same thing. Any help would be greatly appreicated.

Thanks,
David

 

Codes? 04 Instrument Cluster Self Test Error Codes

Would be nice but no, an 06 doesn't have the solder issue. That was 3rd generation 96-00 vans.

Looks like your data bus is down. Most likely if you connect a scanner and try to pull any codes it won't work, but worth a try. Was any maintenance done just prior to this?

Troubleshooting the PCI data bus is a process of disconnecting modules and measuring it's +/- 2.5 volt power as you go. The BCM is the primary controller. Other modules are the TCM, FCM, PCM, power sliding door/tailgate, cluster, info center, overhead display, ABS controller, airbag controller, HVAC panel. Unfortunately I don't recall the specifics. I'll see what I can find.

Cluster panel lamps is a function of the BCM lamp drivers and the cluster. Pin #1 at the cluster is power and pin #7 is ground.

Starting and dying quickly is a sign of a possible alarm system fault. After 5 tries it will prevent cranking for 30 minutes (???). Was the system light on?

How did you test the battery?

 

Raptor,

No there has not been any maintenance work done. I have not had a chance to attempt to pull any codes yet, but plan on attempting this weekend. Any information on troubleshooting the modules you described would be great. I tested the battry with a standard battery load tester and measures "good". Just for giggles i put a trickle charger on it overnight, still same result. It has been sitting my driverway for 3 days now still no cranking. What do you mean by "system" light? Basically the only lights that come on with the key is the radio section and the head lights. Nothing at all in the dash.

Thanks for the quick reply,
David

 

I am having the same issues with my 2006T&C. I know it will not start if i try to unlock the door and the keyfob wont work. Battery is brand new. My buddy could not get any codes off it. Then the next day it started. And it started a few times since. A couple of days later now it wont start again. No dashlights when this happens. It will start and stall. How do I check the PCI data bus exactly?

 

A little late to the part here fellas, my apologies. I knew about this possible problem just from reading several forums about general problems with this generation, and the I guess we can call it the 4th gen revision 2's, (05-07) where a few small changes and tweaks, like the injector harness being routed farther away from the exhaust manifold where it melted the insulation and caused misfire but showed no sign of damage until the black heat wrapping was taken off to reveal the individual low voltage conductors with melted insulation. I believe they stopped making AWD models and introduced the stow and go, which changed the gas tank, fuel pump, and several other things going on in the floorboard and underbesth the van.

Anyway back on track with the instrument cluster. So I have been doing a lot of tinkering and also checking, finding, and fixing known trouble areas along the way, I had never had the cluster where it went wild, all the gear selection indicators were on, or blank cluster, or all of them came in and refused to turn off when when taking the key out of the ignition until today, although I a few times at night while idling at a long light, and the radio in full blast, I did notice what seems like a volume limiter engaging, where the max volume level reduced on it's own and refuse to go any louder, and I say what is described as a florescent bulb flicker in the odometer, that flicker would go away after a few minutes at normal driving speed but thersdio seemed to take days to return to it's louder max volume.

So today was the day I was going to diagnose the front fan blower motor resistor for the ac, and I thought for did poops and laughter I would replace some of the ac panel lights that illuminate the buttons while I was at it, turn out the blower motor is basically brand new and the fan speed control module, is brand new which is what it's called in the automatic climate contol version of the HVAC systems, but the cabin air filter had never been changed and had 8 inches of dust and possible rats nest in too of the filter, removed it, gave the actuator door motor 5 if 6 good snacks with a hammer, and came right back to life, but smashing the actuator motor in the process (blessing in disguise because I can't stand the fact it disables recirculate when defrost is selected, or every 10 minutes, due to mopar thinking it would help with odors in the system, so I just slid the door manually to recirculate, and killed 2 birds with 1 stone) so I have the center part of the dash removed, radio ac controls, the airbag led light, whole 9 yards, decide it's hot enough to go the store for a fountain drink so I plug the battery back in thinking surely it will drive with out faults not having the ac controls plugged in, the radio, controls for the heated seats or some silly light indicating the airbag is operatinal right? Wrong, it started but the dash was blank, I opened the door and all the lights came in, gushes went berserk, then they wouldn't turn off with keys out of ignition, i literally had every fault in both directions, remedied by opening and closing the driver's door, there is a weird connection for cluster affected by the hinge, and it turns it the real kicker that throws it into that hissy fit is voltage spike or dip. Bad ground not enough sure thing, not plugged in, too much or no response st all sure thing, it was all tied into the HAZARD LIGHT SWITCH AND THE PASSENGER AIRBAG INDICATOR.