Your fob may be OK, The one your wife uses seems to be the one at fault. Just having that one in close proximity to the van(or in it) is enough for unintentional signals being sent and BCM to react to them. Take the Battery out of her fob or better yet, swap key/fobs with her. But still take the battery out of hers while you have it.
One of the vans I dealt with with this problem, the owner was keeping the 2nd remote in the glove compartment with the battery still in it, and his main use fob had battery out and was still getting faulty actions..Till we took the battery out of that one also. ONLY then did the owners confess that he had been having this problem for a year and I was his 5th person to work on this problem and the first to even suspect bad fobs!

 

It turns out that there is a recall related to the fobs and ignition module that was never fixed. I had one ignition recall fixed, but not the second one. So I should be getting 2 new fobs later this week. Hopefully this will do the trick.

I also got the dealer to tell me the correct part number for the sliding door wire track. I will address that once the fob and window issue is fixed.

I also found the code for the airbag light to be U0173, but I have not had time to research it any.

I don't know if any of these issues are related to each other.

I appreciate your help Rebel.

 

Well, I am impressed that you are doing your homework about your van! Nice find about the fob recall. I have been "retired" from the trade for more than 10 years now, but still maintain my own and help with friends rides, so would not know of recall or TSB status for these "newer" model years. Just going from a lifetime of experience and what I have run into along the way. And whether Chrysler or Dodge the mechanicals are the same, and I have been driving various year models for the last 24 years..BEST minivans EVER!
Good luck to you as you finish working out the gremlins in your van!

 

 

Thanks for posting this! That is EXACTLY what I was trying to describe in my postings, I'm not computer savvy enough for posting links like you did. Back when I was fighting this problem for an older gentleman from my place of worship...I could NOT find such a site to get replacements, just whole fobs. I got one "repaired" enough to function properly for him. He was nearing the end of his driving days, so was happy the problem stopped and didn't want to spend the money for new remotes or parts. Didn't even want to pursue the RECALL from his bought new van!

 

I bought a used 2010 T&C that only had one key fob. I bought a second fob online and had a local locksmith program and cut the new key for about $60 (some locksmiths refused to program a key that they didn't sell, they wanted nearly $200 for a key with program and cut).

I bought a third key as a backup and that sell provides instructions on programming a third key yourself. You'll need two working keys to do this, but after that you can program additional keys yourself. Here's the URL to the instructions:

https://northcoastkeyless.com/2010-c...-instructions/

And here are the instructions in case the above URL ever stops working:

1. INSERT the first working FOBIK remote key into Ignition.
2. TURN Ignition to the ON position for at least three (3) to fifteen (15) seconds.
3. TURN Ignition to the OFF position and REMOVE key.
4. WITHIN fifteen (15) seconds, INSERT second working FOBIK remote key into Ignition.
5. TURN Ignition to the ON position.
6. After ten (10) seconds a chime will sound and the Immobilizer Warning Lamp will flash indicating entry into Programming Mode.
7. TURN Ignition OFF and REMOVE second working FOBIK remote key.
8. WITHIN 60 seconds INSERT NEW FOBIK remote key into Ignition.
9. TURN Ignition to the ON position.
10. After ten (10) seconds a chime will sound and the Immobilizer Warning Lamp will flash indicating successful programming of that remote.
11. TURN Ignition to the OFF position and REMOVE key.
12. REPEAT Steps 8-11 for any additional FOBIK remote keys to be programmed to your Vehicle.
13. Test all remotes. Programming is now complete. The remote and key are now both programmed.
14. If these programming instructions helped save you time and money, please consider sharing our website with friends and family so they can do the same.

 

I have a 2011 Durango Citadel
It does let me roll both front window down when I unlock with fob
the hold unlock for a number of seconds
both windows will go down as long as I hold the unlock button

 

It did not seems I could edit my quick reply.

 

Sometimes locksmith will simply clone your existing key.
I think you need two valid keys of different codes to program an extra one
To install an aftermarket remote starter it is the way to program the bypass module
which become like a third key.