I have a 2010 T&C with about 45K miles.. Passenger power slider is giving me some fits.. Driver side works fine..

What happens is you'll go to close it (with fob or overhead) and it will get to where it's almost shut and then kick back open.. Nothing is in the way.. Sometimes you'll try 4-5 times and it will just keep kicking back open and then you'll just put some pressure when it's almost closed and it will shut..

Other times it will close the first time, second time, etc.. Here is a video:

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/JEapfpXwoZA" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Any ideas?

Thanks

 

Link didn't come across.. Here it is:

 

 

TIP: If you're soldering the joint, don't twist the wires together with oily fingers. That's a 'No No'

 

The soldiered joint looked a bit dirty.

 

I'm not surprised with all the muck he had on his hands.

 

Its one of those few cases where doing the job properly is not the best choice. I did mine the correct way with good quality sleeve and regretted doing so. I did one for someone else and used the more malleable self amalgamating tape. Silicone tape is a~n~other.

 

Didn't seem to be the case with mine.. Took it apart and no breaks.. Also, my door isn't "stopping" like his video.. It goes and then bounces back..

 

If you have excluded wires in the chain-harness, the door control module is behind the door trim panel can detect resistance [obstruction in the door's path such as a childs arm or the fuel tank filler] to door travel. The module has the capacity to 'learn' and can be re-taught by a capable reader.

Assuming the overhead console / keyfob / door pillar electrical switches do not work and only manual hand closing intervention does you may need to have the codes cleared and a re-lean done by a capable code reader from a local garage or sell you wife and three of your children to have a main dealer do it.

best of luck !