Ok, Tested all the sensors all of them had a reading on the meter,Q,should i get a reading no matter which way the leads off the meter go on to the plug pins? Just that the rear n/s sensor only read one way + - If i swapped the leads on the pins i got no reading,It might have been a coincidence that i got all the test leads the right way first time on the other three sensors? I liked to have been able to removed both front wheels do the test the and replace the wheels,then do the same with the back, only one jack.

 

the sensors are just coils of very fine wire, they shouldn't be polarity concious. What readings were you getting?

Corrosion can give a diode effect

Richard

 

Best way to check the sensors is to make a "break in" connector to the loom (at the connectors under the wheelarch) using some small wire. Put you multi-meter on AC volts or if you have use of an oscilloscope use that, spin the wheel you should see a fluctuating voltage of somewhere around +- 1v that changes when you spin the wheel.

All four wheels should be similar, you'll soon see the difference on the faulty sensor, the voltage will not change. It's normally the front sensors that fail, the rear are inboard and well protected.

In my experience the ABS light resets itself after approx 1/2mile driving after fixing the sensor.

replaced two front ones in the 15yrs I had my 2001 CRD voyager

Mat

 

I will try and find someone with a diagnostic with the codes for ABS. see if that will help me out. The readings were in the 29,0000 to 30,0000? just the one on the n/s/r that acted the way it did.

 

hmm...that sounds a little high. Cant remember the exact figure but think it's around 1.6K ohms

Richard

 

tfb.. I thought the same. Anyway. I`ve booked the car in the garage, They have the codes plus an oscilloscope, So that is happening next Wednesday. Let you all no the out come.

 

Bill, I'm not sure you are testing ohms right. I'm assuming the multimeter is auto ranging let us know here and we will tell you how to set the meter up.

In the pic in #2

- you are testing ohms not volts
- you put the probes one on each pin
- on the wheel side not the harness side
- you should get around a steady read between 800 to 1800
- if you are in the UK start NSF 1st then OSF
- the pins should be agnostic - make no difference which way round they are
- if the reading goes ever upward [not steady] it needs replacing
- if you do the other wheel[s] you should get a similar variance on each wheel you test

 

Here's a walkthrough mate.

 

My new sensors, both were tested at around 480 Ohms. We did the work and threaded it on here around 10/25/2014.

 

Thanx for the vid, I did watch that one on UTUBE, I did test as shown just that the figures were different ,lol, Anyway,Its booked in,and i will let u know the out come, Thanx again.