Hi thanks for your reply,s

I had the car plugged in today at the local garage and the problem turned out to be the n/s front wheel sensor that is at fault so going to try and clean it first if that doesn't work then going to replace it

Ill have a look on eBay Leedsman thanks for that

ill let you all know how i get on

pete............

 

To test the sensor, just unplug it, connect two small wires, plug it back into the loom and connect a multimeter, spin the wheel and check for a small AC voltage as the wheel is turning.

I had the same on my 2001 CRD, i checked them and it was the nearside front. Ordered one from Ebay USA, approx £20 fitted and gapped it correctly worked fine. The light turned itself off after approx 1 mile of driving once the sensor was replaced.

 

All sounds good to me. Incidentally, what sort of a/c volts did the meter show on giving it a spin -- roughly that is?

Leedsman.

 

Hi There Guys

Well i took the sensor out and cleaned it put it back in and tried it still the same so i brought one out of eBay £20 and fitted it today took the car for a drive the light went out and stayed out i gave them a resistance test with my multi meter side by side after i removed the old sensor and the old one was giving approx 7.41v unsteady resistance and the new one was giving 7.61v steady resistance so it was obviously faulty

anyway its all fixed now

Matriff thats a good tip ill remember that if this happens again

Pete ......

 

Possibly shorted turns in the faulty sensor. That would give a dc. resistance test slightly lower than a new good one. Matgriff's test was to check the ac pulse OUTPUT by spinning the wheel, and setting the digital voltmeter to low ac volts. Some shorted turns on the pg. coil (Pulse Generator) will reduce output dramatically, as the shorted turns load on the rest reacts almost like a short on a transformer, giving the micro. nothing to work with. Incidentally, exactly the same pg. coil method was used on the two spool-carriers of video-tape recorders. Incidentally #2, I've had shorted turns on loudspeaker voice coils giving a thin, reedy un-natural sound lacking in "warmth".

Anyhoo, A RESULT here. Let's put this one in the permanent memory banks of The Chrysler Enthusiast's Forum.

Leedsman.

 

Thanks Leedsman this is a good forum and its great being a member. I like coming here and reading peoples problems even if i dont have a problem myself ill try and help were i can.

Also its an education on what can happen on Chrysler cars and how to remedy the problem

Pete ...

 

Good one Matgriff...Here Here Leadsman...I've still got an ABS light on and will take note as to outcome of this thread when I do mine. Will of course follow with my results When I get round to it.

 

Checking the sensor with a digital DVM is easy, I think the good sensors produced 1-2v AC, the faulty sensor was 0v... ie completely dead, so it's not so important what the exact output voltage is, just look for one that's significantly different than the others.

Start with the front as these seem to be much more prone to failure because they're open to the elements. The rear are inside the hub so they stay nice & clean and are well protected.

 

Matgriff, I would have guessed about 1 to 2volt ac., but if it's zero, then that removes all doubt. Starting with the front will also save some time as you say.
In micro. systems generally, it seems far more likely to be a bad sensor rather than the microprocessor board itself that causes problems. Or even dirty sensors, as in opto-couplers. Just cleaning the head of the LED in the opto often fixed probs. immediate.

Leedsman.