If you have access to a low clamp meter .... you have a perfect tool for eliminating off-draw.

Ignition-Off Draw [IOD] IGN off and IGN key out, bonnet alarm turret taped up, clamp meter in place and switched on and doors locked, alarmed and bedded down for at least 15 minutes. After 15 minutes the puters boot then down into sleep state - hence the reason you can not [position the meter] apply a voltage test after sleep - you just wake the puters up [by inducing a draw] and mess the figures the test gives.

A normal vehicle electrical system will draw from fifteen to twenty five milliamperes (0.015 to 0.025 ampere) with the ignition switch in the Off position, and all non-ignition controlled circuits in proper working order. Up to twenty-five milliamperes are needed to enable the memory functions for the Powertrain Control Module (PCM), digital clock, electronically tuned radio, and other modules which may vary with the vehicle equipment. A vehicle that has not been operated for approximately twenty one days, may discharge the battery to an inadequate level. When a vehicle will not be used for twenty one days or more (stored), remove the IOD fuse from the Integrated Power Module (IPM). This will reduce battery discharging. Excessive IOD can be caused by:

• Electrical items left on.
• Faulty or improperly adjusted switches.
• Faulty or shorted electronic modules and components.
• An internally shorted generator.
• Intermittent shorts in the wiring

Beat of luck, Scotsman4th.

 

A couple of years ago I calculated the :

- two 15 minute periods @ 13.2V is 2 x 15 minute @ 21Ah, compared to ;
- two 15 minute periods @ 14.4V is 2 x 15 minute @ 60Ah, to be an improvement of about 300%

Lifestyle : Two 15 minutes trips once a week.

In the context of my x2 15 minute trips to King Oswy from my place the problem seems to me to be that that button sensor °C is always going to assume I'm fully charged dropping the voltage output from about 14.0+ to about 13.0+.

Take care.

 

The clamp meter didn't work at work, so tried to do it the old fashoned way and it set the alarm off. It couldn't be cancelled and went off and stopped afain for a good couple of minutes. I'll get back to that one.

It's still saying it's charging at 14.45 on the calibrated meter, so happy with that. I've also ordered a couple of the cigarette lighter voltmeters which I'll check for accuracy and use in both 12v outlets just out of curiosity.

Took the battery off, and gave it a charge. At 5 hours it was still charging but had finished by the time 10 hours had passed. Obviously the cars turning over/starting great just now. Hoping the mod keeps it that way, we'll see how it goes in the next few days (and hopefully weeks).

I had another read at Leedsmans thread and seen the Odessey references from yourself QinteQ. I've an optima 75ah/975cca battery here that I use for jumpstarting, might see if there's any way to get that in if the current battery looks like failing again.

 

HiYa Scotsman,
- that's why I quoted low as in mV, rings are notorious for never being able to read low, you have to have the right one - never mind
- setting the alarm off no idea, that should not have happened if it was already switched on and in the 'wake state'
- I'd be overjoyed, ecstatic even with that steady figure
- is a mixed mode yellow top isn't it ?, its still a good starter battery though

The yellow [Commercial D31A & D31T and Domestic D51 & D51R - D35 – DS46B24R - D75/25 - D34 – D34/78 - D27F] and red are both the same physical size [check yourself] and should go straight in unmodified. Richie [tfb] likes them so that's a high recommendation, I don't but don't let that put you off a far as I'm aware they are one of the few straight swap size better alternatives. Charging requirements - don't stick a big brutal 'wellie charger' on an Optima !

If your existing battery does go tit's up again, don't chuck it, give it 3 weeks on a 5 / 7 stage charger and save yourself £100. Both LidL and Aldi sell the ULG chipset charger for £15 several times a year - they are a good safe set & forget unit that will recondition, de-sulph and bring back to life almost any SLA type battery. Not as good as the CTEK MXS7.0 but then the CTEK MXS7.0 costs 600% more. Best of luck.

 

Yellow - are deep-cycle units, ideal when accessories (sound systems, electric fans/pumps, multiple lights, winches) can overwhelm the alternator’s output. Yellow with a dark gray case is a multi start & deep-cycle compromise. Yellow with a light gray case is deep cycle only.

Blue - come with both light and dark gray cases; they are designed for marine and RV use. The light-case BlueTop is the same as a YellowTop on the inside, but a BlueTop battery has additional thread posts for marine and RV applications] and dark gray cases; they are designed for marine and RV use and kept in storage for long periods.

Red - typical daily driver probably taxes its battery most when starting; a RedTop is a safe bet, providing the highest “instant-on” power for starting; but if you have a vehicle that uses a lot of electrical equipment – motor-operated doors, pumps, heated seats, a monster sound system – look to a YellowTop.

Clear as mud - I think !

 

Update Tue 22nd Feb.

Using the Fluke I get 14.0-14.4 reducing over 15 minutes at both driving and at a stationary 1500RPM - this after having been parked for 6 days, I checked the Ring [during the same driving & stationary 1500RPM test] which is in the switch-able RHS lighter socket and it gave the same figures as above. Why this time and not the first time .. .. I've no idea.

I'm considering a 'trimmer' rather than a simple resistor to see if I can calibrate the variable to a ± 14.4 average, I also want to revert to my lifelong standard of never ever using chockkys / twisted / scotchlok / taped and all screw type connectors which inevitably go bad 500 miles from anywhere in a blizzard. The extra 5 minutes making a proper solder connection and sleeve protection without exception gives a lower electrical resistance, a much better mechanical strength and along with the sleeve better protection against the environment.

So it looks like I am currently getting the same ± as others who have used the same 39p resistor. Cheap mod, 5 minutes and all done - and it works.

 

Thanks QinteQ, good information and glad your meters are matching up.

I'm trying to find the right plug type that I can purchase to make my own connector, as I agree it would be better to have a proper plug-in to do the job than 'hack' into the wiring.

My results after having the sensor still connected but away from the battery, my charge voltage doesn't budge. I have also since read that the tech spec on this sensor shows if it's not working/giving a reading outside of tolerance (e.g. disconnected) it'll default to a charge voltage of 14.0.
If anyone knows the connector type/name then let me know and I'll see if I can order a few and make a mod!

Also QinteQ, I'm sorting a new battery, what's the recommendation, I'm thinking the higher the Ah I can manage the better. I'm looking at a 75Ah "ABS 096R XD Plus Car Battery" from Advanced Batteries which is still a black case red 'top' battery (BTW thanks for that great clarification before, I never realised all that!). So am thinking that's the one to go for.

 

I don't know the battery, but if it fits [L278 W175 H190 & UK posts] the spec & price looks ok. I've always advocated 80/800. My current personal preference is what BMW used to put on their high end AGM cars till just recently, which was a Varta [manufactured] F21 of course that only fits if you are prepared to MOD the whole battery tray and leads. The new spec BMW [also Varta made] are fitting is 90/900. Best of luck.

 

I've long been anti snake~oil additives, I mean they do work .. .. marginally, of course they work. If you pour in an expensive additive to increase the cetane index in any fuel its bound to improve its combustion quality. Straight derv in our pumps is 48 & premium is 55 if you add cetane to premium I've no idea what you get [55++?] other than an OTT bloody expensive gallon. I've never believed the Paul Daniels argument that you save more in added MPG than the additive costs you. My god they will invent fuel magnets that give you better mileage by realigning your fuel molecules shortly - Oh yes .. .. they've already tried that scam ! You decide.

 

Some guys appeared at our bothy 2 or 3 years ago to fit something to our van to improve fuel economy. I laughingly said it's not those magnets is it, but yes, it was.

Before I bought an additive, I had a look into it and the ones I bought (one for the wife and sons petrol cars, one for the GV) are basically cetane boosters as you say. The diesel one claims 4 cetane points increase. Just as a point of interest too, as I ran my last one on it, a report I found said Biodiesel was 55, same as premium diesel.
I used the petrol one today, in the wifes Nissan Note. It has been returning 35 mpg before this, I'll see how it goes.

Not used the diesel one yet, on my third tankful, I've had 26mpg and 22 mpg on the first 2 tankfuls, with the first tankful being premium. Journeys and driving style varies a lot so not really very scientific, plus with the drop in temperature, it's been ticking over longer than normal.

That's the battery struggling to start the car again, lasted a week, so I'll check nothings draining it and try to get the optima in it tomorrow.

Finally, the reason I went back to the GV. Fridge freezer and some other stuff away to the tip yesterday, seats down and away you go. I'm building a garage just now too and the joiners coming Monday to put the trusses up. No time to get a delivery, so it'll be down to the builders merchant for roof sheets and some other stuff. Again, seats down and into the back. Gotta love these cars.