The oinly info on my Battery is;
12V 70AH 640A I'm assuming the 640a bit is the CCA is that correct ?

 

I too would assume its 640CCA. These motors in the UK winter months usually run best on a 019 type Battery, but as mentioned earlier you or garage have to make them fit - there's just not size-wise the room for it. That's why garages and sales sites fob you off with 600 instead of 800CCA, or try to sell you an expensive red/yellow [4's] top 'spiral' batteries at £250+. Here's what I describe as a taxi battery its a bog standard 019 which is 100ah and 800CCA that will take any amount of hammer from a big diesel or even a mini-bus. Here is another better brand 019 which is 95ah and 850CCA.

 

On this same subject this will start a megga 3 litre Range Rover its 95AH and 800CCA cold cranking amps and its peanuts at £80.

But at 353mm Long 175mm Wide and 190mm Height it won't fit the sodding tray without 'chonking' great lumps out of the battery bay!

 

I'm Back again !!!! Car has been stood a full week and the wipers haven't moved, I've accessed the vehicle the the electronic fob a few times with no adverse effect to the battery.
Yesterday morning I used the car for a short trip of 2 km it started first time and no problems were encountered, on my return I parked it up and went inside.
I approached the vehicle this morning in order to use it for church, the wipers were operating on there own with no key in the ignition they were moving slowly as it was draining the power from the battery also there was a loud clicking noise from under the bonnet in the vicinity of the fuse box.
On my return from church (having used our other vehicle for the journey) I opened the bonnet (the clicking was still happening) removing the fuse box cover I removed all the black relays and the green ones one at a time all to no availl the clicking persisted !
I think the clicking occurs when the battery is flat and is not the cause of the flat battery ?
I replaced the battery with a fully charged (albeit underpowered) one, the clicking stopped.
I removed the wiper relays and placed the other battery on charge, I'm going to be using the car shortly as were due to go out somewhere, so will repoRt again later.
Assuming the wipers are still 'live' when the key is out of the ignition what the hell do/can I do about it ?

 

A guess / re-starting point.

All fused battery positive voltage is supplied to almost everything through the Inte-grated Power Module [IPM]. That fusebox is not what it appears to be but is several 'layered' PCB's with pins stcking up through one or more PCB's into what you call the fusebox.

That box top / lid comes off and as you know, and all the fuses are numbered in the lid, the bottom of the IPM fusebox is connected to the loom at the bottom, that too easily comes apart exposing the IPM / loom connects with a plastic clip on the side near the wing.

Mucho dirt, verdigris, gunge and bad to poor connections can be found and easily cleaned under there - have a look.

 

Thanks for the info regarding the fuse box, however it appears to be secured by 2 clips between the battery and fusebox and 1 between the fusebox and wing But I can't work out how to unclip them ?

 

See here:-

"""If you turn the key on your Caravan and get crazy unexplainable electrical problems, or multiple electrical problems, head right for the Intelligent Power Module (IPM) located next to the battery. Water intrusion and corrosion in the bottom of this unit is a MAJOR problem with these vehicles.

Disconnect the battery terminals and let the system power down for at least five minutes before removing the IPM. Then remove the IPM and check the wiring harness and internal connections for corrosion. If you find any, REPLACE the entire unit. That’s right, you’re wasting your time trying to clean the corrosion - it’s THAT big of a problem. Otherwise you'll be chasing electrical gremlins for the life of the vehicle."""

- I don't agree with all of the above, but it is one experts opinion and worth a read, all his Cyrysler [by model] articles are here
- work out how to unclip them ?, I can't exactly REM but I had no bother, so just carefully persevere
- for myself I'd leave 15 minutes +, I've noticed on the EURO spec vans, have capacitance power long after the (-) cable comes off

 

I'm not suggesting you do this, but this is what the IPM looks like in bits and explains my earlier comment on "several 'layered' PCB's with pins sticking up through one or more PCB's into what you call the fusebox." :

 

Thanks for the Info Mate, Going back the the UK for 1o days tomorrow so will search out an IPM there, seen one on E-BAY for £48 BUT it still my not fix the problem !
By the way I used the vehicle this morning having removed the Wiper relays a few days ago, the battery was stil flat so the wipers may not be the cause but a symptom of failure !

 

I never thought the wipers was the wipers, but the wipers was an IPM / BUS issue, its only once you pull off the connectors from the bottom of the IPM and undo the 4 clips that separate the layers of the IPM you begin to see the corrosion. The IPM at first sight can look bright & beautiful, inside can lurk a very rusted ugly duckling. Try the following before you buy a SH replacement IPM.

You will have a fully charged battery when you arrive here in the UK, try pulling only the IOD fuse which controls both remote key fobs / radio / heater blower / flick back mirrors / sliding doors / interior lights and central locking system etc. What happens when only the IOD fuse is pulled ?