I think it is the ECT but then how is the temperature gauge reading normal on the instrument panel and showing 87 degrees on the diagnostics? Is there another sensor for this? Reluctantly started on second crank this morning with a bit of throttle applied. Didn't have time to give the hand primer a try to alleviate leak back.

 

Ignore the P1685, it's normal for a message from the SKIM/SKREEM to not get through to the ECU occasionally.

Fuel starvation, or air in the fuel on these will cause an instant cutout not the gradual spluttering to a stop. As soon as the ECU detects fuel pressure drop it will cut the engine.

Either it's air leaking in or fuel leaking out. For fuel leaking out it could be dribbly injectors, excessive leakback or pressure safety valve leaking. For air getting in, the fuel filter housing is the most likely culprit.

Regards
Richard

 

Cheers Richard that logic sounds good to me.

Will get on to it again tomorrow. Primed the pump on the fuel housing this morning. Took about 2-4 pumps to become solid then started straight away. However all the boxes were lit up on the gears but able to select R and D and it drove fine. But somehow it hasn't happened again today? Doubt it is related in anyway.
Might have to take it to a local diesel specialist as I am short on testing equipment namely a scope and pressure testing equipment. Never mind the tool to remove the injectors! Need to locate the harness for the ECT as it is not currently attached. This has definitely got to be a big reason why the fuel economy is so poor. Engine is probably running rich all the time if the ecu isn't detecting the ECT.

 

Have a look here

Index of /pub/chrysler-dodge/manuals/Service Manuals/2005_RG_Town&Country_Caravan_Voyager_Diesel_Versio ns_Include

You should find details of the wiring loom somewhere

Regards

Richard

 

Have a look here

Index of /pub/chrysler-dodge/manuals/Service Manuals/2005_RG_Town&Country_Caravan_Voyager_Diesel_Versio ns_Include

and wiring diagrams are here

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0Bw...Z0k&authuser=0

You should find details of the wiring loom somewhere

Regards

Richard

 

Brilliant, appreciate the links. If I can't find the wiring loom then hopefully the electrical diagrams will have the ECU PIN number that it should be attached to. The car had an engine replacement a few years ago and by the looks of it, it was most definitely not completed by chrysler (I'm hoping) Quite poor work. Some cables have been routed very poorly especially vacuum pipes which I have sorted and secured but not my cutting out and hard to start problem unfortunately.
My next question is where does the M-PROP VALVE live? Is it on the IP or the fuel rail. Not sure of its technical name so can't find it in the diagrams?

 

it's on the back of the IP, it's the only electrical connection the IP has.

Inside The Bosch CP3 Injection Pump - Diesel Power Magazine

has a good picture, also called metering unit or fuel control actuator

Regards
Richard

 

Cheers Richard. Think you should go on mastermind and have grand voyager as your specialist subject. That was the technical term I was looking for. Now I can clearly see on the schematic in the repair manual this part. I think this May well be my issue. Quite a few sensors and air in fuel can cause what I have been experiencing but not many can cause it to hard start and stall specifically on over run. Read a couple of interesting articles on the M-PROP and it is seeming more likely it is this!

 

Just a quick point. Has the fuel filter/heater housing been changed? If not you will, sooner or later. Pull the heater plug and see if there is residue on the plug or in the socket. A crack usually develops between the two pins. The result is hard or reluctant starting and sudden cut-off when accelerating.


I am not big on swapping out parts until you accidently hit the right bit. As Richard knows, I have changed my fuel filter due to this problem at least 2 times. The first time I changed the housing and wiring harness, the second time I thought the filter was only finger tight and changed the filter - problem gone! It was likely firm but any air leak at all... The old style housing/fuel heater is famous for this problem and you will get the problem, likely when you least need it. I believe Chrysler actually had a recall at one time, but most have exceeded the mileage long ago

 

I will definitely check the fuel heater plug housing again. Might be worth removing it and inspecting properly. I pumped the primer 11 times this morning and it started straight away like a brand new car but yesterday was hard to start without pumping the primer. Got the P1130 code but not sure how p0340 came about. Could turning over with a low battery cause it??

Does this suggest a low pressure fault only or can a leak in the high pressure side cause the low pressure side to leak also?

vrc8883 if you have changed the housing out recently do you possibly have the part number please?

Cheers Dan