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  #11  
Old 10-29-2011, 05:58 AM
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Hey Raptor

The 54 plate thing is a mainland UK oddity, where people tend to give the age of their car by quoting part of the number plate prefix rather than just saying the year.

As a consiquence, nobody outside the UK knows what the hell we are talking about. 54 plate means the car is a 2004 model (or early 2005 model.....don't ask!) 05 plate would be 2005 and 55 plate would be 2005 or early 2006, and so on.
 
  #12  
Old 10-29-2011, 06:18 AM
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i put 04 from start of thread

which is short for 2004
also 2.8 didnt start till 2004 in the uk

previous was the 2.5crd 16 v and previous to that it was the 8v diesel unit

so 2 big hints to what we have.

was there a 2,8 crd in 1984 in the states?
 
  #13  
Old 10-29-2011, 10:04 AM
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You put 54.....

Originally Posted by pestilance
54 plate lmited xs 2.8 crd
...which is meaningless to anyone outside the UK.

You are right about the 2.8CRD not being available in 1984 in the states, nor 1994, or 2004 or 2009. Not even in 2011.....diesel voyagers were never available in the States.

So not such big hints after all if you are not from the UK.
 
  #14  
Old 08-07-2012, 02:13 PM
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Did anyone find a permanent solution to this problem?
 
  #15  
Old 08-07-2012, 04:39 PM
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After some googleing around I have found this:

Ask your dealer to perform TSB 08-040-04
TSB 08-040-04 (Tehnical Service Bulletin) reads this:

NUMBER: 08-040-04
GROUP: Electrical
DATE: December 9, 2004


THE DRBIII® FLASH FILES FOR THIS BULLETIN ARE AVAILABLE ON
DealerCONNECT.
FOR MARKETS OUTSIDE OF THE UNITED STATES AND CANADA, THE FLASH
FILES AND REPROGRAMMING INSTRUCTIONS WILL BE AVAILABLE ON ITIL/ISIS
DVD FEBRUARY, 2005.
SUBJECT:
Flash: Driver And Passenger Power Door Lock Switches Inoperative And Opening the
Liftgate Triggers The Theft Alarm
OVERVIEW:
This bulletin involves selectively erasing and reprogramming the Body Control Module
(BCM) with new software.
MODELS:
2004 - 2005 (RG) Chrysler Voyager (International Markets)
2004 - 2005 (RS) Town & Country/Caravan
NOTE: This bulletin applies to 2005 vehicles equipped with Power Locks only (sales
code JPB) and 2004 - 2005 vehicles equipped with Power Locks, Power
Liftgate, and Security Alarm (sales codes JPB, JRC and LSA respectively).
SYMPTOM/CONDITION:
The vehicle operator may describe:
· The alarm sounds erroneously when opening the power liftgate using the key fob
while the Vehicle Theft Alarm (VTA) is armed.
· The driver's and/or passenger's door lock switches are inoperative.
The technician may find "Left Unlock Output Failure" and/or "Right Unlock Output Failure "
Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC's) in the BCM.
NUMBER: 08-040-04
GROUP: Electrical
DATE: December 9, 2004
DIAGNOSIS:
1. Using a Scan Tool (DRBIII®) with the appropriate Diagnostic Procedures Manual,
verify all systems are functioning as designed. If DTCs are present, other than those
listed above, record them on the repair order and repair as necessary before
proceeding further with this bulletin.
2. With the ignition switch in the "RUN" position, determine the original part number of the
BCM currently in the vehicle. Using the DRBIII® select:
a. "DRBIII® Standalone"
b. "1998 - 2005 Diagnostics"
c. "All (Except Below)"
d. "Body Interior"
e. "Body Computer"
f. "Module Display"
g. Record the "Software part #" on the repair order for later reference.
h. Check DTC's
3. If the vehicle operator describes or experiences the Symptom/Condition, use the
following table to determine the appropriate action.
Year Model BCM Software P/N Action Required
2004 RG/RS 04836966AG or earlier Perform Repair Procedure
2005 RG 04840935AC or earlier or
04843198AA
Perform Repair Procedure
2005 RS 04839664AE or earlier or
04841954AA
Perform Repair Procedure
2004 RG/RS 04844016AA or higher Further diagnosis is necessary.
This bulletin does not apply
2005 RG 04843198AB or higher
2005 RS 04844017AA or higher or
04841954AB or higher or
04843752AA or higher
SPECIAL TOOLS/EQUIPMENT REQUIRED:
NPN Battery Charger
CH2002 General Purpose Interface Bus Cable Assembly
CH6000A Scan Tool (DRBIII®)
CH7000A/7001A J1962 Cable with red DRBIII® connector
TechCONNECT Workstation
NOTE: An updated J1962 cable has been released. This cable has a red colored
connector at the DRBIII® connection. Use this cable whenever a flash is
being performed.
REPAIR PROCEDURE:
NOTE: Whenever a controller is programmed, the software in the DRBIII®; must be
programmed with the latest revision level available.
08-040-04 -2-
NOTE: If this flash process is interrupted/aborted, the flash should be restarted and
then follow the directions on the DRBIII®.
1. Before beginning the reprogramming procedure, remove any old flash reprogramming
files from the DRBIII® memory. To clear the memory from the MAIN MENU:
a. Simultaneously press the "MORE" and "YES" keys.
b. A screen will appear requesting a "COLD BOOT".
c. Follow the on screen instructions by selecting the "F4" key.
d. When the DRBIII® reboots to the MAIN MENU, proceed to Step #2
2. Connect the DRBIII® to TechCONNECT. Open TechTOOLS and verify that the
"DRBIII® Status: Connected" message is in the upper right corner of the TechTOOLS
screen.
3. Enter the "Software part #" recorded during "Diagnosis" in the "Parts Criteria" area and
select "Show Updates". TechTOOLS will populate the available updates.
4. Select the calibration.
5. Select the "DRBIII" radio button which is next to the "Download/Update" button.
6. Select the "Download/Update" button.
7. Monitor the "Flash Download/Update Progress" window on the TechCONNECT and
follow the instructions on TechCONNECT. When the flash process is complete,
proceed to Step #8.
8. Disconnect the DRBIII® from TechCONNECT.
9. Open the hood, install a battery charger and verify that the charging rate provides
approximately 13.5 volts.
10. Connect the DRBIII® to the vehicle.
11. Turn the ignition to the "Run" position (engine not running).
12. Download the flash from the DRBIII® to the vehicle. Using the DRBIII® select:
a. "Vehicle Flash"
b. Follow the directions on the DRBIII® screen.
13. Verify that the problem cannot be repeated by cycling the ignition switch OFF/ON and
actuating both door lock switches a few times. If any door lock failure still persists then
further diagnosis is necessary. Verify the BCM "Software p/n" was updated to the new
software p/n using Diagnosis Step #2.
NOTE: Due to the BCM programming procedure, a DTC may be set in other modules
(TCM, PCM, MIC, SKIM, etc.) within the vehicle, if so equipped. Some DTC's
may cause the MIL to illuminate. Check all modules using "Module Scan",
record the DTC's, and erase these DTC's prior to returning the vehicle to the
customer. Erase any DTC's in the PCM only after all other modules have had
their DTC's erased.
POLICY:
Reimbursable within the provisions of the warranty.
TIME ALLOWANCE:
Labor Operation No: Description Amount
08-19-02-96 Reprogram Body Control Module 0.5 Hrs.
FAILURE CODE:
FM Flash Module
-3- 08-040-04
For flashing BCM dealers usually charge one hour of labour.... or more... it depands how cute you are...

Cheers.
 

Last edited by Up4Si; 08-07-2012 at 04:42 PM.
  #16  
Old 08-13-2012, 10:24 PM
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I have a 2005 Chrysler Town and Country that is also having this same problem with the electronic locks -- they won't work with either the key fob or the door switches. This just started a few days ago.

I also have another problem with the air conditioner fan. It shuts off when the outside temperature gets above around 96 degrees, but then turns back on when it cools down. This has been going on for a couple of months. I tried to bring it to the dealer but the day I went it rained and cooled off so it worked and they couldn't find the problem.

Could these 2 problems be related? Is there a simple fix I could try?
 
  #17  
Old 08-14-2012, 08:03 AM
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This two problems are probbably not related. About the locks, read my previous post about TSB 08-040-04. It's a BCM related problem, to be more specific it's the software bug and yes, there is also a simple and free fix you can do and that is to reset BCM. To reset BCM do the folowing:

1. With the engine off, open the hood
2. Open the fusebox under the hood
3. Locate IOD fuse (Ignition Off Draw) in the fuse box and remove it
4. Wait a minute or two then put IOD fuse back in
5. Then turn the ignition key to ON (do not start the engine) and the indicators will blink twice (I think they blink only if you have alarm equipted car).
6. BCM is now reset and the locks should work as normal.

Remember, this is only a temporary solution becouse it is most likely that the fault will sooner or later came back. To fix it permanently you need to upgrade BCM's firmware.

About A/C I have no idea. But it seems to me that the compressor is overheating.
This might be as a result of a low AC gas so I'd suggest you to take it to the nearest garage and let them check the gas pressure inside AC system and refill it if needed.
 

Last edited by Up4Si; 08-14-2012 at 08:10 AM.
  #18  
Old 08-14-2012, 09:08 PM
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OK, thanks. I'm on vacation right now and don't want to really waste a lot of time sitting around a dealer's waiting room. But I can try the fuse trick here in the parking lot.

Regarding the A/C, by "low gas", do you mean the refrigerant? Once I get home should I buy a refrigerant recharge kit and try to recharge it? (This car is now off warranty and when I brought it in even though they didn't know what was wrong, they mentioned 3 possibilities and each was several hundred dollars.)

One thing new with this A/C problem, there is a low humming noise now some times when the fan is working. Also, the fan shut off tonight -- even when it was cooler outside. I think the problem is getting worse. Any ideas would be appreciated.
 
  #19  
Old 08-15-2012, 02:01 AM
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Yes, I ment refrigirant level I just couldn't find the right word for it in english That's where I'd start looking for the couse but before buying a kit I'd check its pressure at the garage. It's just a few minutes job.
 
  #20  
Old 08-15-2012, 07:51 PM
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Thank you so much! I pulled out the IOD fuse and replaced it AND IT WORKED -- THE ELECTRONIC LOCKS NOW ALL WORK!! (I realize this is a temporary fix, but I can get the BCM upgraded later after I get home from vacation.)

I also (hopefully) now got my AC problem fixed. I brought it to a Pep Boys to get the refrigerant level checked and they found out the blower motor was bad. I had them replace it and now it’s working too. The only thing was tonight when we were out driving the fan seemed to fade out and back in a few times.

One thing I thought of when I was playing with the IOD fuse was why not try replacing the "front blower motor relay"? I could buy an extra relay (they all look like they're the same size, and I'm supposed to have an spare one anyway according to the diagram on the fuse box), then I could temporarily replace the front blower motor relay with the new one and see if it made any difference. What do you think?
 


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