The Eurovan - what we call the Voyager are all TQA Thacham Quality Approved. Don't let stupid phone jockeys in call centres make you install unnecessary and fundamentally inferior quality assured equipment. The Voyager has been on the Thatcham list in one form or another as long ago as 1997 (R3L) [ish], and continues to be (RTUL since 2005). There are other protections built in since the middle 80's such as immobilise & gear selector gate lock etc.

When the sales nuggets ask their assertive questions simply but firmly state that the current factory install is 'Thacham Approved', they usually immediately back off at that point.

NOTE : RTUL simply means Remote & Transponder & Ultrasound & Central Locking.

 

Thanks All....

Blackadder - what you said is very useful ... I do have the led mounted in front of the dials... I suspected it may be aftermarket as I already have the Red light on the radio and the SKIM light in the dash.... I also downloaded the manuals that Raptor posted the links to .. I was having trouble finding any reference to the light... I will have to pull the dash to start tracing back and really after what QinteQ said I am really tempted to try and remove the additional alarm. My concern is I won't have any idea of how it functions and whether I can just remove it and how integrated with the Chrysler electronics it is. I hope that it is causing the issues as its hard to use the dash lights usefully as the cel/mil is probably on because I have pulled the battery and the airbag light did see m to stay on but maybe this goes out when you actually start the car and of course I can't do that just yet.

Neil

 

Is the light by the dash dials permanently on?
When you tuen the key to try and start the car do you get a "ding" and the skim light on the dash panel goes on and then off?

The wire break for me was in the wire loom under the bonnet.
Stand in front of the engine bay and shine a light down just to the left of your battery, you will see the huge wire loom wrapped in black velcro material, these wires go to the battery and to the cars brain which on mine is next to the battery.
The wire loom is held by a wide metal clip that is mounted on the engine, this had worn through the black sheathing of the wire loom and had caused the break in the wire.
To test this you need someone with an expensive gadget that pulses a signal down each wire and can isolate a break.
I think you will find that the after market immobilisor and alarm is connected to the cars brain, so the car will expect to see it before it will work.

 

Yes - My light in front of the dash is permantly on.. When I turn the Key (after the test/startup sequence finishes) the SKIM/IMMOB light stays on along with the Airbag light and the MIL/CEL engine icon light eventually appears. Although as I said before that could be because I pulled the battery. No ding noises at all but I do get the warning if opening the door with key left in - so I know the chime circuit is working OK..

Yesterday I pulled the dash apart and the always on LED didn't look like something installed afterwards - it's to well done and the wires go all into the main loom. This has led me to think I have the RKE Thatcham module that all the manuals seem to refer to as fitted to EXPORT models only. I am still reading to try and find any info on it !!!!...

I did have a quick look where you refer to and I think thats the IPM box which holds the PCM module - a LOT of wires end up there so the problem could be anywhere. All fuses look fine and no obvious damage to wires. Tried to read the codes and two devices couldn't connect and the key on/off sequence just doesn't want o play ball at the moment. This could be a long one !!!!...

Thanks for the help.
Neil