Hi to all, can anyone help with a problem that started a year ago, intermitant start problems then cutting out under load up hills then stopped starting all together with the key but will bump start in 10 yards. Had garage check it over no pressure loss or leak to injectors, was advised over the past year by different garages each doing there own diagnostics. Parts replaced to try and solve problem.. return rail, cam sensor, glow plug relay, inline fuse checked, new battery, glowplugs 2 sets, high pressure fuel pump upgraded and new harness. Just no idea anymore. Any thoughts pleeaase. Just stumm
ped that it bumps and runs

 

Depending upon where you are in the country I could have a look.

Agree it's odd that it bumps, will need to look at the fuel pressure during cranking and the rate of rise.

Regards
Richard

 

Sounds like not enough fuel pressure per your cutting out under acceleration. Not starting, surely not the Fuel Filter old problem.
Cam sensor ! What about Crankshaft one.
No pressure loss, well it wouldn't have after air purged from fuel after running.
This high pressure fuel pump at fault is a regular garage one.
Injector leak by checked, well that's ruled out.
How about fuel rail pressure sensor.
Answer is on here but need clues, codes would help.
Good one and not wiring we hope.

 

Key Dance ? Hello !

 

Hi rich, that it was said by one garage that it wasnt getting up to pressure quick enough hense changing the high pressure pump, ye think this is where the fault could be?

 

Where are you based so when I do get problem will know where to come

 

1st thing to check is the low pressure fuel pump (uplift pump). Turn key to ignition and you should hear the pump whirring. Ensure air is purged (about 1 litre should be removed) without running the motor. At this point it is also possible to check fuel pressure in the low pressure part of the circuit.

Check the return fuel from the injectors when idling. Renew fuel filter - 15 minute job. I was shocked at the black colour of my filter - now I change it every year.

Also check out turbo. This kicks in at about 2000 revs. If it's not running, you will be limping and will have difficulty getting power.

If these check out and as you have replaced the rail and high pressure pump... it could be the sensors (common rail has two sensors and the high pressure pump has a solenoid/sensor). These are used by the ECU To determine the fuel/air mix under all driving conditions. Is it cutting out after 40km/h speed - this is the cutoff point when driving mode will change. It tells you that it could be sensor related. You will need a code reader / mobile phone app to see codes and reset. Some codes are only reset after running trouble free for a long time, unless you force a reset vias the code reader/phone app. Finally you have a sensor on your accelerator foot pedal. This throttle position sensor is used by the ECU to determine throttle need - I guess this is fine if you can rev up the engine in neutral. Finally you have the very expensove MAF (mass air flow sensor) and the crankshaft position sensor (if this one is faulty, could explain the no-start condition).

Good luck...!!!

 

Hi all. Maybe who say to me. I have 2001 yars grand voyager 2.5 crd. Computer show 6 errors. four errors in the values I ​​found. but I can not find the two, it is P1652 and P1685. Where to look for the fault