Chrysler want £880 to change gearbox solenoid switch!!!
#11
You won't believe this!!!!
Just had dealer (Arnold Clark) on the phone to give me even more bad news.
They can't get the gearbox to work properly (come out of limp mode) after checking all the wiring and replacing the Solenoid switch pack so their next option is to reprogramme the ECU. They don't own the necessary reprogramming tool so they need to loan one, which apparently is a industry standard across many car makers. They cannot get the tool until 27/03/14.
I have contacted Chrysler UK and hopefully they will be able to help.
Has anyone ever heard of anything like this and has anyone had the solenoids successfully changed?
Thanks
Mark
They can't get the gearbox to work properly (come out of limp mode) after checking all the wiring and replacing the Solenoid switch pack so their next option is to reprogramme the ECU. They don't own the necessary reprogramming tool so they need to loan one, which apparently is a industry standard across many car makers. They cannot get the tool until 27/03/14.
I have contacted Chrysler UK and hopefully they will be able to help.
Has anyone ever heard of anything like this and has anyone had the solenoids successfully changed?
Thanks
Mark
#12
Limp as I've said in other threads is always a megga problem to chase down. Either it is easy after reading the codes and replacing both sensors or you are in for the long and tortured haul. Most threads involve garages including main stealer's replacing part after part after part then the TCM itself and still it won't work. Essentially the issue is that :
- the transmission control module under the OSF wheel arch needs to but can't work out the input & output shaft speed
- they almost never check wiring harness and connectors
- garages first assume its the I or O sensor and replace both
- they then move on to even more expensive replace and hope parts
I feel for you mate, I have this issue and gave up on it 2 years ago. For myself it (1) never happens in the warm weather only in the Nov-Apr period and (2) always restarts after an IGN off so I've learned to live with it. A small indie garage who would charge parts only if unsuccessful would always be preferable to a national chain. A better investment would be to give it to Richard for a day, at least he works with and understands Chrysler and has the right experience and live data capable diagnostic gear, most garages do not have any diagnostic gear that will touch Chrysler .. .. and as a result have very little Chrysler experience.
I wish my post could be more helpful in practical terms and supportive, but I've been there, done that, unlike you it cost me nowt, but the outcome[s] was the same.
NOTE : Do not put after-market sensors in they almost always read wrong
- the transmission control module under the OSF wheel arch needs to but can't work out the input & output shaft speed
- they almost never check wiring harness and connectors
- garages first assume its the I or O sensor and replace both
- they then move on to even more expensive replace and hope parts
I feel for you mate, I have this issue and gave up on it 2 years ago. For myself it (1) never happens in the warm weather only in the Nov-Apr period and (2) always restarts after an IGN off so I've learned to live with it. A small indie garage who would charge parts only if unsuccessful would always be preferable to a national chain. A better investment would be to give it to Richard for a day, at least he works with and understands Chrysler and has the right experience and live data capable diagnostic gear, most garages do not have any diagnostic gear that will touch Chrysler .. .. and as a result have very little Chrysler experience.
I wish my post could be more helpful in practical terms and supportive, but I've been there, done that, unlike you it cost me nowt, but the outcome[s] was the same.
NOTE : Do not put after-market sensors in they almost always read wrong
#14
With the car in PARK the RPM should be ± [digital meter] 800 ohms, the turbine shaft [input] is measuring the torque converter and at PARK that would be the same[ish]. Now take it out of PARK, put it in drive and the output sensor should rise slowly relative [linear] to the car's speed. Only after that 'live test' should [1st] the input then if necessary (2nd) the output sensor be replaced with calibrated units.
Hence my comments on after-market sensors and 'live-reads' in 77058
NOTE : "Only after" - yes only after testing, put the 'soddin' code reader down and plug the brain in, the torque converter is the same speed as the engine. Do the 'live' test then decide on a menu of probabilities where to put your customers money.
Hence my comments on after-market sensors and 'live-reads' in 77058
NOTE : "Only after" - yes only after testing, put the 'soddin' code reader down and plug the brain in, the torque converter is the same speed as the engine. Do the 'live' test then decide on a menu of probabilities where to put your customers money.
#15
it really does infuriate me the way garages seem to operate. It's disgusting that they charge for parts and work that don't fix the problem. The price should be to fix the fault and if their diagnosis is wrong then it's their problem.
If you can get it back it from them, then I might be able to get over this weekend. I'm not a professional mechanic, but I do have a lot of experience I will always do my utmost to actually diagnose the fault and don't resort to swapping parts out.
A limp mode should be easy to diagnose, if it's in limp mode then it's the EATX is not trying to control the gearbox and the EATX should be reporting why it's dropped out, though as Q said wiring and connector faults can be a bit of bugger to actual locate.
Regards
Richard
If you can get it back it from them, then I might be able to get over this weekend. I'm not a professional mechanic, but I do have a lot of experience I will always do my utmost to actually diagnose the fault and don't resort to swapping parts out.
A limp mode should be easy to diagnose, if it's in limp mode then it's the EATX is not trying to control the gearbox and the EATX should be reporting why it's dropped out, though as Q said wiring and connector faults can be a bit of bugger to actual locate.
Regards
Richard
#16
Richie you are 400 miles return + night out costs from me. To make the point to the forum for what its worth I'd rather invest in that huge up front fuel & motel cost to have hands on Chrysler experience that give it to anyone local who does not have that experience. As you say we the public give our treasured motor to a garage for their product knowledge, I'm not satisfied that even main stealer's have experience, they are just part-swappers who pass the costs of their inadequacies to the customer when their recommendation does not work and the costs escalate from 1 part to 2 parts to 3 parts, etc.
#17
Limp as I've said in other threads is always a megga problem to chase down. Either it is easy after reading the codes and replacing both sensors or you are in for the long and tortured haul. Most threads involve garages including main stealer's replacing part after part after part then the TCM itself and still it won't work. Essentially the issue is that :
- the transmission control module under the OSF wheel arch needs to but can't work out the input & output shaft speed
- they almost never check wiring harness and connectors
- garages first assume its the I or O sensor and replace both
- they then move on to even more expensive replace and hope parts
I feel for you mate, I have this issue and gave up on it 2 years ago. For myself it (1) never happens in the warm weather only in the Nov-Apr period and (2) always restarts after an IGN off so I've learned to live with it. A small indie garage who would charge parts only if unsuccessful would always be preferable to a national chain. A better investment would be to give it to Richard for a day, at least he works with and understands Chrysler and has the right experience and live data capable diagnostic gear, most garages do not have any diagnostic gear that will touch Chrysler .. .. and as a result have very little Chrysler experience.
I wish my post could be more helpful in practical terms and supportive, but I've been there, done that, unlike you it cost me nowt, but the outcome[s] was the same.
NOTE : Do not put after-market sensors in they almost always read wrong
- the transmission control module under the OSF wheel arch needs to but can't work out the input & output shaft speed
- they almost never check wiring harness and connectors
- garages first assume its the I or O sensor and replace both
- they then move on to even more expensive replace and hope parts
I feel for you mate, I have this issue and gave up on it 2 years ago. For myself it (1) never happens in the warm weather only in the Nov-Apr period and (2) always restarts after an IGN off so I've learned to live with it. A small indie garage who would charge parts only if unsuccessful would always be preferable to a national chain. A better investment would be to give it to Richard for a day, at least he works with and understands Chrysler and has the right experience and live data capable diagnostic gear, most garages do not have any diagnostic gear that will touch Chrysler .. .. and as a result have very little Chrysler experience.
I wish my post could be more helpful in practical terms and supportive, but I've been there, done that, unlike you it cost me nowt, but the outcome[s] was the same.
NOTE : Do not put after-market sensors in they almost always read wrong
#18
Thanks
Mark
#19
it really does infuriate me the way garages seem to operate. It's disgusting that they charge for parts and work that don't fix the problem. The price should be to fix the fault and if their diagnosis is wrong then it's their problem.
If you can get it back it from them, then I might be able to get over this weekend. I'm not a professional mechanic, but I do have a lot of experience I will always do my utmost to actually diagnose the fault and don't resort to swapping parts out.
A limp mode should be easy to diagnose, if it's in limp mode then it's the EATX is not trying to control the gearbox and the EATX should be reporting why it's dropped out, though as Q said wiring and connector faults can be a bit of bugger to actual locate.
Regards
Richard
If you can get it back it from them, then I might be able to get over this weekend. I'm not a professional mechanic, but I do have a lot of experience I will always do my utmost to actually diagnose the fault and don't resort to swapping parts out.
A limp mode should be easy to diagnose, if it's in limp mode then it's the EATX is not trying to control the gearbox and the EATX should be reporting why it's dropped out, though as Q said wiring and connector faults can be a bit of bugger to actual locate.
Regards
Richard
I'm off to Scotland on Saturday so thanks very much but I'm not here. Problem with taking the car away from Chrysler dealer is that I'll have to pay the full bill and I'm hoping that I'm going to get a discount based on the way they have treated us. If I get no joy after all this with them I'll gladly take you up on your offer and see you alright for the help.
Thanks
Mark