Chrysler Voyager & Town & Country The first and foremost name in minivans leading the class since their inception in the 1980s

Electrical issues

  #1  
Old 05-25-2018, 12:51 PM
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Default Electrical issues

I don't know if this is related but I'm having some electrical issues with my van. It started with the fob not starting, had to jiggle it and then it would start. Thought batteries, changed them and haven't had that issue since, but the driver door no longer turns on some light or kills radio when opened. Bas, esp, and traction control light come on but normally I shut car off and restart and they go out. This is random but happens. Now my left rear brake and turn signal will work for about 10 seconds then I get a fast blinker like the bulb is burned out but it isn't. Is all this related? Could my computer be starting to go?
 
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Old 05-25-2018, 12:55 PM
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YEAR, MODEL, and trim level would be VERY HELPFUL!
 
  #3  
Old 05-25-2018, 01:05 PM
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2008 Chrysler town and country. 3.8l
 
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Old 05-25-2018, 01:47 PM
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THANKYOU! Now we can start working on things to try and help.
The new generation(08 and up) incorporated a lot of the functions you describe as acting up are done thru the BODY CONTROL MODULE. The EASY(but a little expensive) is to have a Chry. DEALER scan the van with their proprietary Star scan equipment, which can readily track down what is happening. Most other "shops" can only read OBD11 and maybe ABS codes and not the BCM. Also of note is that your van may fall under a service bulletin/possible recall for troubles with the remote key fob.
My humble opinion from your posting is a wiring problem where the wires exit the drivers door and enter the door frame. Last question for you is how old is the vans MAIN battery? an older(therefore weaker power) battery can cause a LOT of ODD symptoms!
 
  #5  
Old 06-13-2018, 09:18 AM
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Just to add here as I have recently encountered alot of electrical issues on my 09 T&C, there is a recall on the Wireless ignition module inthe 2008-2016 t & c vans. GET it i replaced as soon as you can. I didn't and ended up with a new alternator, a new battery, and lots of headaches trying to figure out the issue. NOW that being said it worked fine for over a week once the recall was done......as of yesterday I am back to the overnight battery drain and I cannot figure out whats going on with it. I am about ready to junk the POS and just start over with a different make and model of vehicle all together!
 
  #6  
Old 06-22-2018, 12:45 PM
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A few completely routine operations here if you are at your wit's end.
Disconnect both terminals of the battery and clean them up with an old knife and scraping the lead terminals, Plus a round file on the connectors down to bright metal. Replace with a little Vaseline on the terminals.


Remove any "ground straps" you can find running from gearbox etc. to chassis and clean up to bright metal. Replace with a little Vaseline.


Check and clean the other end of the negative lead from the battery to chassis in the same way.


Ensure the large alternator terminal is clean and tight, but don't break it with excessive force. Do this along with a disconnected battery. Never disconnect the battery with the engine running.

. The results are too frightening to mention.


If under your bonnet/hood there are microprocessor boards next to the battery, you'll need to inspect same carefully for a white "excrescence" underneath -- but disconnect the battery first. Clean off the white sulphation with an old toothbrush and some brake cleaner, pull the plugs in-and-out a few times to scrape off invisible sulphation, then spray a TINY amount of WD40 on the pins. This sulphation can cause wierd effects.
Read all the old entries on this website about these problems, they can be very time-saving.
Leedsman.
 
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