Help me please
#1
Help me please
I have a 2001 town and country 3.3 about 165k I recently found out the hard way and I gave someone a jump I drove away from the person with no harm done (his car didn't do nothing) so I drove away like 3 miles away my whole electrical system and engine shut down it was off for about 2 hours before I was able to get it back on but in that time frame I went to get the battery tested and battery was fully charged still.... once it was back to being drivable I will start driving and all the dash, radio,lights and everything electrical turns off also the engine jerks when the power goes out it continues to switch on and off no check engine lights on and their are not any trouble codes present I really need advice on where to start because I don't have the money to keep throwing at the wrong things thank you for reading
Last edited by Townandcountrydad; 05-15-2017 at 08:53 PM. Reason: Include more info
#2
What did you do to get it "back to being driveable"? Will it do it while idling in the driveway? How intermittent is it - or is it? All was ok before the jump?
I'm thinking battery cable ends, battery cables or alternator. Free stuff first. Inspect the battery cable ends. They've been known to come loose from the cable due to bad factory crimps or corrosion. Inspect the cables for any signs of blistering. Shake them to induce the problem. Might try a voltage drop test on the cables. Inspect battery and alternator connections for for looseness, corrosion, signs of overheating etc. Inspect the power connection from the battery in the IPM for same. Have the alternator tested - usually free at many parts stores.
The BCM bolted to the firewall under the driver's side dash controls the vans interior lighting and much of the electrical accessories. You can reset it and the data bus by disconnecting the negative battery cable a few minutes. The IPM (fuse/relay box) distributes power all over the van. Could inspect the connections on the bottom for signs of heat damaged pins or corrosion. If you're game disassemble it and look for any signs of arcing on the internal circuit board.
Since you can get it to run for a time, I'm thinking the PCM under the drivers fender splash shield is PROBABLY ok.
I'm thinking battery cable ends, battery cables or alternator. Free stuff first. Inspect the battery cable ends. They've been known to come loose from the cable due to bad factory crimps or corrosion. Inspect the cables for any signs of blistering. Shake them to induce the problem. Might try a voltage drop test on the cables. Inspect battery and alternator connections for for looseness, corrosion, signs of overheating etc. Inspect the power connection from the battery in the IPM for same. Have the alternator tested - usually free at many parts stores.
The BCM bolted to the firewall under the driver's side dash controls the vans interior lighting and much of the electrical accessories. You can reset it and the data bus by disconnecting the negative battery cable a few minutes. The IPM (fuse/relay box) distributes power all over the van. Could inspect the connections on the bottom for signs of heat damaged pins or corrosion. If you're game disassemble it and look for any signs of arcing on the internal circuit board.
Since you can get it to run for a time, I'm thinking the PCM under the drivers fender splash shield is PROBABLY ok.
Last edited by Raptor 07; 05-19-2017 at 01:00 AM.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
musicfreak2195
Chrysler 200 & Sebring
2
06-03-2009 08:43 PM
cnixon
Chrysler Voyager & Town & Country
4
06-11-2008 10:41 AM
firebiz16
Chrysler Voyager & Town & Country
3
02-06-2006 06:30 PM
stiffler30174
300M, Concorde, LHS, New Yorker
0
11-06-2005 08:02 PM