Well, finally resolved the black smoke and rough idling issues that I have been struggling with. I am posting this as a new thread, as there are many other threads on black smoke and rough idling and this one is more on the changeover of injectors.

Up until the final resolution - I had tried the following:

1. high pressure pump solenoid changed - slight improvement
2. egr valve replaced and piping cleaned out - idling small improvement but a lot more black smoke when heavy accelerating
3. injector cleaner in fuel and in air intake - waste of money, air intake spray even caused some sharp knocking
4. bled air from fuel system - no change
5. injector leak back test - everything fine although one injectopr was markedly lower (7ml) than others (15ml). Limit if 25ml I think.
6. check that fuel system from filler to tank to lift pump to high pressure pump was intact, no holes, no vacuums - all fine.
7. checked turbo for oil leaking into air intake... yes, there is a small amount of leak, but it has been like this ever since I bought the car in 2003. Source of smoke ruled out.
8. ruled out clyinder compression loss as acceleration and consumption were fine
9. cleaned out IAT sensor - no change
10. probably tried a few ither things too...!

Finally ordered four refurbished injectors from ebay eps-germany. Also ordered this puller: Injektoren Auszieher Chrysler, Jeep und LDV.

Despite warming the engine, using penetrating spray over a few days and an air powered torque wrench, the first injector did not budge at all. The hook shaped puller stretched and got distorted with nary a scratch on the Bosch injector.

At this point the puller was useless. I am glad that the puller broke - the last thing I would have wanted was for the puller supports to crack the cam cover.

Finally took it to the local garage. The mechanic spent 3-4 hours with a 5kg slide hammer to remove all four injectors...! He refused to use the hydraulic puller due to risk of cracking the top cover of the motor.

After months of trying this and that, the car idles well and smokes no more.

I did not use new fuel pipes as recommended by the dealer. If you are careful and use plugs and keep the area clean, it's ok.

Takeaways:

1. It might be a good idea to remove injectors avery 2-3 years, clean out the rust etc and re-insert. Especially as getting to the injectors is so easy
2. Around 120,000km, it seems injectors may well need replacement

One last point, these refurbed injectors were calibrated but did not come with an computer codes. Does anyone know if the 2002 engines used computer coded injectors?

Thanks, kkc.

 

- as far as I know they are plug 'n play
- tfb will no doubt spot this post shortly and will confirm either way for you
- are you saying the BGS Technic bent under stress ?
- that would take a lot of doing, but better than fracturing the cam cover
- good tip then from you on 'slide hammer' v other puller

 

Just wondering if injector would come out eventually by torqueing up puller, applying release oil and leaving overnight. Its not just Chrysler VM's that have this problem. Was talking to a mechanic today and he was having trouble pulling Peugeot 1.6 injectors.
Looks a sturdy puller that BGS one.

 

- that's what I thought Goggsy, its a Chrysler 2.5 & 2.7 CRD small space [not slide slammer]
- but it stipulates for VM specific engines, which is why I was asking

 

Injectors don't need coding

Regards
Richard

 

Thanks tfb... for the confirmation on coding. The garage I went to specializes in diesels and he confirmed to me that a lot of motors, irrespective of make, have seized injectors.

QuinetiQ - yes, the puller stretched and got distorted as I was tunring the torque not on top of the BGS puller. The hook area that pulls up the injector just got squeezed is now pretty much useless.

I did think about leaving the puller on overnight. However I am not convinced that the release oil soaks down as far as the copper washer - it's 8-10 cm. I suppose if they go down 30% that's 30% release. Worth a try.

In my case, the injectors were rusty all the way down - rust and brown colouring. The impact wrench I applied was so powerful that it was shredding bits of metal off the BGS torque nut. Thankfully no pieces entered into the fuel intake port of the injector as I had removed the high pressure pipe. I think what is needed with these injectors is impact energy - powerful bursts of energy to release and pull them out. A constant overnight pull from the puller will probably not be enough.

One other option I tried was to turn the clamp bolts lefty-loosy about two turns and then let the motor run at about 1500revs for a few mins to see if piston pressure would do the trick. Didn't work! Maybe a short uphill drive might have done the trick.

 

Not sure whether it's been the impact wrench or the BES puller, but 40-50 injectors removed by the genuine Miller Tools puller cant be wrong.

Normally needed a 2ft breaker bar, or a ratchet with a scaffold pole, but slow and steady wins the race.

Any 4 injectors, 20 mins, guaranteed.

I went to a guy that had tried removing the injector clamps then having a good run up and down a dual carriageway. Dont know the RPM but sure it was more than 1500. Didnt budge them.

 

Couple of questions sir

1. How much was the leak back test
2. How much did you pay for fitting of new injectors

 

I wouldn't go for impact tools either. Slow steady force is required and plenty of the correct grease around the injectors when refitting

Regards
Richard

 

If I remember there a video on You Tube of 1 or 2 guys standing on the engine of a CRD voyager and removing the injectors with a huge slide hammer tool...Couldn't quite believe it needed that tool to get them out...