Hi All

Having just found this forum and it seems I have experienced most of the problems out there I am glad to have found you all. Since Chrysler have pulled the plug on support in the UK lets just see if we can do it ourselves. I have been experiencing parasitic power drain for about a year now. It was intermittent but is increasingly in frequency leaving in stranded when out and about.

I have measured the current draw on the batter to be 1.45 Amps steady after the 5 mins following turning off the Chrysler using a current clamp. This is significantly above the 0.0125 A that other posts have indicated it should be pulling on whilst idle.

I have tested the fuse voltage drop (Using this method) across the accessible fuses and found the following.

M27 ~115mV on a 10A fuse (Ignition switch)
M20 ~50mV on a 15A fuse (Con int light, sw bank)
M4 ~70mV on a 10A fuse (trailer tow)
M36 ~92mV on a 20A fuse (Power out battery)
M13 ~156mV on a 20A fuse (lock unlock)
M12 ~40mV on a 30A fuse (AMP radio)
M38 ~59mV on a 25A fuse (lock unlock motors)

I could not test the Jcase fuses by this method due to them being sealed.

Basically the whole system seems to be on.

I Then went on to remove all (including the JCase) fuses 1 at a time and at no point did the drain drop. I did the same with the relays again no drop in current drain. Does anyone know how I can move this forward so that I dont have to disconnect the battery every night.

Many thanks in advance.

Lex

 

doing the mv test you did does nothing for amps. What you do is hook you meter up to test the amps dont open any doors use key fobs or anything to wake the system back up.
Then after 5 min and you are to the 1.45 amp draw start pulling fuses until the amps do down to .35ma once you see that draw do down then you have found the circuit thats staying alive. Then get a wire diagram and see all of whats on that fuse circuit then start unplugging things until that same draw is gone with the fuse put back in.

 

For me, on my 2007 CRD it turned out to be the AMP that had corroded terminals. I did the same tests that you have done but when I removed the fuse for the radio AMP the current draw dropped to .35. I posted my findings at the time.

Edit: Here's the thread Power Drain Go to my post dated 12-03-17

 

Thanks for the replies and suggestions.

I have today pulled out the fuses one but one and the current draw dod not drop below 1.4A. I was replacing each fuse to effectively taking them out one at a time. Do i need to remove them one at a time but leave them out?

Cheers for your help so far.

 

with them all out its still drawing 1.4 amps? taking out should instantly drop the draw putting back in would make it go back up. so either you did not find it on a fused circuit or you looking at something like a computer staying on

 

Ok i have not solved this but have found the source of the parasitic drain. The malfunctioning sliding door window does not raise or lower using the button. What was causing the issue is that the window as about 1mm lower than it should be (but still closed). This was causing the vehicle to not complete the lock cycle. Manually forcing it up solved the parasitic drain.

There was a hint in that like this the signal indicator lights stayed on very dimly all the time. Maybe this is a by design feature to let you know the car is not secured or maybe its a gremlin in the system. Either way pushing it up 1mm solved the issue.

Now i just have a broken door to fix.

 

Hi Guys, recently I had this problem, we thought that could be the radio or the amplifier, but the problem was the bluetooth module! It’s below the light’s panel behind the cover. Try to disconnect it and make the test.