I really need some help! I have owned a 1999 Chrysler Town & Country Limited for 2 years now. Out of that 2 years I have only been able to put about 7,000 miles on it (and I have 5 kids to run around). My question is this: Has anyone else ever experienced any problems sounding familier to this, if so, what was the diagnosis and did it fix the problem? Thank you in advance for any help.
Problems:
The van will turn over completely, stay running for a few seconds and then shut off, after doing this 3 or 4 times, it won't even crank, but all of the lights, radio, windows, etc. still work. If I let the van sit for half an hour to a couple of days, it will start just fine and run for a couple of weeks before deciding to do this again. Also, while driving, the dash will go flat (speedo, tach, fuel gauge, temp, trip dist., and mileage) and the service engine soon, and the ABS lights will come on. The van will drive fine like this and it will always come back on.
We have taken it to the dealer to get it fixed several times, with no luck. They can't get the problem to duplicate and aren't getting any codes spitting out to tell them what is wrong with it. Everything checks out just fine.
Please let me know if anyone knows anything about this problem. Thank You!!

 

We have the same model and year, 1999 Chrysler Town & Country Limited, and are experiencing the same problem. This problem has just started in the last couple months. I first noticed it while driving, all the indicators went suddenly dead (speedometer, tach etc went to zero), but just for a brief moment and then operated fine. A couple weeks ago it suddenly would not start. It will turn over and start right up, but after you release the key it dies immediately. It will do that maybe four times, then when you turn the key it won't even turn over. We come back after a few hours and it will start right up. It's only happened twice, so it's been hard to identify the exact symptoms. After the first time we took it into a local shop. They ended up replacing the ignition switch ($340). It worked fine for 2 weeks then it occurred again. I am suspicious that it is related to the hot weather. Each time it was sitting in the sun after being driven, but that may not be it at all? Any progress on your similar problem. Does yours actually run for a moment after you release the key?

Regards, Steve

 

We have a 99-model (2 litre, man. gear) with the exact same problem. The car starts up then run for a couple of seconds and then stops, and after doing this a few times it won't turn over. A few hours later everything is working just fine. We too have sometimes had the problems with the indicators going off and then on again. The problem with the car not starting have hounted us for two years now starting in May 2004. And like Steve here I suspect this problem to have to do with weather conditions. Because I only have this problem in warm weather which means Mai-August here in Oslo, Norway. So for about 4 weeks ago it started over again after working fine since September. And it have happened twice already this summer.

I have taken the car to the dealer several times 2004 and 2005 and sometimes they could read an error code from the car's system. I was told that the code indicated "error on data-bus" and that the code did not point at something more spesific (!?). And since everything is connected together on that data-bus they told med that the fault could be about anywhere. To start somewhere they suggested that we changed both the main control module (BCM-module?) which is placed next to the battery. This was done August 2004 and of course the car went just fine all autumn, winter and spring. At least we were happy Chrysler owners during a period of 8 or 9 monthts... the problems came back with the rising temperature. Then last year we replaced the control module for key recognition, which is placed somewhere nearby the key. Neither this worked out. And since it is very expensive to buy this kind of "family car" with 6 seats+ in Norway which I guess is the reason way we have learned to live with the problem..

Some days ago I also read about this problem at another website. The guy wrote that he just took out the key, then closed the door, loocked then unlocked it by using the sender. Then the car started. Well, for shure I will try this out the next time our car won't start. And I will let you know if this works or not.

Regards, Torger

 

I THINK that you guys ALL have more than 1 problem.
The stalling issue is one I've heard of before and seems to be common. If it's the same problem as I've heard discussed on other forums, then it's a fuel pump pressure or fuel pipe/gasket issue. Other people with the same issues discovered that it seemed to happen when the car had under 1/2 a tank of fuel.

The dash lights problem seems to involve some components in the BCM module. Although it's a computer (again, this is "second hand" info. no guarantees or anything , it's just what I've read on the grapevine), it's quite an old fashioned construction.
The BCM is constructed of discrete, separate components so any hobby electronics guy can dismantle it and test the components. It seems that the transistors that fail in these BCM's are labelled with a Chrysler part number but an equivalent can be bought from the likes of radio Shack for about US$1 apiece.

I always say it's a shame there aren't more techs posting here, this has the potential to be an awesome site like www.ford-truck.net where almost ANY tech info can be found for any ford of any vintage right up to present day.

Anyway, I did discover http://www.allpar.com/ and there's a LOT of great stuff on there but I also found a couple of EXCELLENT yahoo groups, one called mopar33lv6 and the other chryslers_minivans where another group of very knowledgeable folk are posting.

I hope this helps, having just got our Voyager a few days ago and loving it, I'd hate to see some folk shy away from what is an awesome vehicle scared off by mis-diagnosis and the "replace it anyway, the customer's paying" mentality of some workshops especially for common, relatively inexpensively fixed faults.

 

Hi Everyone. This is the same problem I had with my 1999 t&c, AWD, Limited van. Exactly. The Dash (instrument cluster) dropping out is the clue. First, get a new instrument cluster circuit board. the dealer will have to have the mileage, and you'll have to know if the van was built before or after may of 1998, because in 1999 they had two. Apparantly they're not interchangeable. Second, either change it, or have it changed. I changed mine, not too much trouble once you figure out how to get the dash out- and last, the dealer has to "calibrate" it. Takes about 5 minutes with a gadget they have.This tells the computer that the guage is on zero, then 50%, then full, for each guage. Like I said, about 5 minutes. AFter that, the instruments will stay up, and the start/stall will quit. I could not get an official answer from chyrsler, because it's too old, but I suspect the tach not telling the car it's running caused the computer to shut down the fuel after starting because it didnt' detect engine running. I changed my dash 2+ years ago, and have not had THAT problem come back ever.
Good luck and happy motoring!

By the way.. There's a shop in florida that repairs digital dash stuff, I found them once, could probably again if you need. The dash you'll probably spend 400 bucks on, but trust me, it's probably NOT the computer (either one.)

 

This is apparently a very common problem on the 3rd gen vans. You don't necessarily need to replace the instrument cluster circuit board - you may have the solder problems described in this thread.
Dash Lights, etc.

There is a link in that thread to performing the actual procedure of removing the dash circuit board. Also, I've heard that there may be cold solder joints on the BCM as well, and that it's worth checking out.

Before dropping the bucks for a new circuit board and getting it all calibrated, I'd recommend trying these fixes first.

As for the engine starting up and then dying, I've heard the symptoms you describe being related to a bad oil pressure sending unit (assuming your oil level is correct already). They've said that the engine starts up, but doesn't sense oil pressure, so it automatically shuts down again to prevent engine damage. If it was a bad crankshsaft or camshaft position sensor (another common "won't-start-but-no-other-clues"issue), I don't think the engine would start up at all. This is all second hand information, so no guarantees, but worth looking at before spending the big bucks.

 

I'm no expert but that sounds rather similar to the problem I experienced today with the immobiliser - apparently (so I have been told) this can be an issue - the immobiliser - if there is not enough power going to the batery in additon to the usual causes.

I have 5 children also.. you don't need car problems on top - good luck!