Ok I have a 2005 T&C Touring W/3.8 litre V6 W/ 79K mileage.
I recently started to hear and its annoying me to no end as it sounds like a cross betweeen a Noisy sticky lifter/Excessive Valve Lash or Possibly a Timing chain that is clicky but has no specific rhythm.
I did not notice it until a week ago maybe when Idling it does this click, click click, clok clack click clunk. ( Disregard my Exp. If I have to I will record the sound and post in to be sharable somewhere and post link as It sounds nowhere close to what I had just explained < Dur Idiot is I
Anyway It is gone at 1200 RPM and I do not notice it what at 2500-3500 RPM only when Idling.
ANy Thoughts on what is going on? Do you all need a more specific actual sound to diagnose it? I cannot find a Maintenance call fo ra Timing Chain replacement. I know it was recommended at 70K or 80 K to replace Timing Bets on OHC and DOHC Systems. I did read also where the Valve train on my 3.8 is basically is autoLash setting system via Oil Pressure in Lifters.

 

Yeah timing chain. I would really have to hear it.

 

I kinda figured it was something that you would have to hear, I had a digital Recorder but girlfriend couldn't figure it out for recording phone calls so she swapped back to POS tape one. I could of used one of my Shure or Sennheiser mics to get a top quality recording now I am not even sure if my camera will be good enough, I just thought of something I can take my GNX4 outside and use its 8 track recorder and mic in to get the recording.
Cool I will get it tomorrow unless it is raining,

 

Just out of curiosity what does a timing chain replacement usually run for price anyway? I am almost positive I cannot do it myself nor do I really feel like attempting it. I will stick to my old engines etc I can do in my sleep with no issues these new vehicles seem to have everything including what you ate last night processed by the multiple control computers and I know how picky they are.

 

Real Quick, Just Humor me.....

Pull the serpentine belt off and make sure that the pulleys are all smooth and quiet. Momentarily start the vehicle and see if the noise is still there. If the noise is gone with the belt removed....Look elsewhere from Timing chain.

As for skill level.... if you can do a 5.0 ford, You can do this...It really isnt that tough. No special Tools That I can think of Offhand..... And ...werent you the guy who got the S***load of Factory manuals????? Its all in there, Step by Step.

 

For the amatuer the most difficult part is aligning the timing cover when going back together with it. It takes steady hands and patience...lol. I think the book time is like 5-6 hours. Parts price...everybody's different. As for me I do NOT like most aftermarket gaskets. They are hit or miss in quality. Yeah it would be a good idea to see if the noise is still there with the belt off. For one, there was a past issue with the water pump pulley making a rattling bell type noise. You can hold it in your hand and strike it with a wrench and ring your ears! We used to make a damper inside them with a tube of RTV. Worked like a charm!!

 

Thanks guys, Sorry for the delay my HP Laptop finally did me a favor and Died, I had no Idea though that Best Buy would make me wait 10-20 days before they would decide to either fix my dead laptop or replace it. TH God they only took 6 days,
I personally feel I could do anything repair wise if I had the tools and a wee bit of info but unfortunately in june of 08 I Ruptured a Disc in my lower back which unknown to me I bulged in Jan of 08 ( I assumed I was getting old and thats why I was sore as heck) anyway it messed me up bad, IE I changed spark plugs on the Van and it takes what MAX 15 min? I could not get out of bed for 5 1/2 days due to extreme pain from that so I finally had to come to terms with something I have been doing my best denial work on hoping I would get better sooner or later.
My back just can't take anything where I have to lean over and of course I can't lift anything much over 10# Sadly as much as It digs at me ( Like fingernail on chalkboard) I am going to have to pay somone to work on my vehicles for any job that requires standing or bending etc. I can still lay on my back and do stuff from underneath though.
I did see in the service records the water pump was replaced a year or 2 ago which I thought was a wee soon since we only have 79K on it, I also figured maybe somone ran wrong anti-freeze and possibly ruined seal?? Not sure.
I think I can remove "snake" Belt and see if it goes away.
Out of curiosity can anyone tell my why I am supposed to use 5W-20 Oil? I thought I found a typo when I read that Heck I am used to using 20W-50 in my old 383 I had and I used that in my Built 318 ( ya I know but its all I had then) I have never heard of using 5W-20 oil, Is there some issue with lack of oil reaching valvetran or pressure washing out cam bearings or something to run such a light oil?

 

Hmm I wonder if Pete Jackson makes a Gear Drive for this Engine ROFLMAO I did find those quite cool on the older engines though.

 

In a Nutshell.....

Its an Industry standard fact, that 85% of engine wear occurs during the initial start up of an engine. Oil viscosity is designed to be a happy balance of Hot and cold flow rates. After an all night "SIT PARKED" situation, the oil has drained down into the pan, and in theory, when you start the engine....The faster it gets "UP-TOP".,, the safer you will be.

I guess if they can MINIMIZE the 85%....It leaves more room for "WEAR" while ACTUALLY DRIVING your vehicle????