Mine is the 3.3 petrol version. I have giving vwhicle full service which has improved the problem will see if I can uplaod a video later so people can get a better idea. It doesnt stall now only goes too but recovers itself. Many thanks

 

It would not be a vacuum leak. That would make the engine idle faster. In modern cars, the engine controller would add the correct fuel to match, so it wouldn't run lean w/ a vacuum leak like old carbureter cars did. Try it. Just pull the vacuum hose off the brake booster and your idle will increase.

I also think the IAC valve is the culprit. It should be simple to remove and clean. I did this on my 2.4L and didn't even need a gasket since it uses an O-ring, which was still fine. You might need a mirror to see inside the port for your 3.3L.

 

Hey all. This is a video of what happens. If the vehicle is being driven it does not stall the rev xounter jumps down and then back up like the car is goin to stall however when tge car is stationery it most of the time does stall. The cruise light flashes on at the same time this happens. Any ideas.
[URL="http://m.youtube.com/watch? v=t1mRKDy4a9E&gl=GB&hl=en-GB&guid=&client=mv-rim"]

 

This may be absolute bull but I vaguely remember reading something about a flashing cruise light indicating a problem with the crankshaft sensor circuit. It uses this sensor as a reference. Since I'm so fuzzy on it it may be it applies to 3rd generation vans (96-00) but, maybe not. A problem with the senor or it's wire harness would cause stalling.

BTW - Forget the IAC valve since it's stalling with throttle applied.

 

Good point on the crankshaft sensor. I think that is about the only sensor that can fail without the engine controller flagging an error. It relies totally on that to determine engine speed and when to spark.

I had a similar problem with my 2002 3.8L w/ 195K miles. The engine would die randomly. It happened to my wife almost like clockwork for maybe a week when driving our daughter home from school, almost at the same place. They would leave the van on the road and walk home 1/2 mile. By the time I got there a few hours later, it always started right up. I tested it and it died 3 times on the highway driving 16 mi to work. No codes. Each time it started up again after waiting a minute. I sometimes wiggled the wires in the engine harness, which might have helped. I spent most of a Saturday pulling down the whole engine harness below where I could check it. I found a few wires stuck together and one with exposed copper, but I might have nicked it when cutting off the vinyl tape. I found that the +8V supply for the crank sensor is shared with the cam sensor (per manual) and also branches to a box behind the driver's side front bumper cover, which might be an ABS box (not in my Hayne's manual). Either of those might draw down the crank sensor's supply wire. I re-wrapped w/ wire loom and silicone tape. I also put back in the original crank sensor. I had replaced it when I had prior trouble that turned out to be a cracked flex-plate. But the original seemed to have a stronger magnet. I also filed down its pad to sit it closer to the "toner ring". Something above helped, since the engine has run perfectly since (~4 months). Remove your cruise control vacuum pod so you can get your arm in behind the exhaust cross-over. It is much easier if you have a ratcheting box wrench (10 mm, I recall). Many tasks have been much easier since I bought a Craftsman set, and I would never give it up now.

 

Thanks for your replies. I have already changed crank sensor. Im at a loss really. Lol

 

Changing the crank sensor doesn't mean that isn't the problem. More often, the sensor is OK but loses its 8 V power supply, as I mentioned. It could also be too far from the toner ring slots, or your flexplate could be cracked and shifted. Mine had cracked between and the bolts (typical) and rotated 20 deg. If it dies on the highway, watch your tachometer. The engine should still be getting rotated by the transmission. If you see it drop to exactly 0 rpm, that suggests no crank signal since I think it uses that to determine rpm. You might need some tools to find the problem. For sure a multimeter, but don't whine since I got ~7 free at Harbor Freight and keep one in all my cars. Worst-case, an O-scope, but those are affordable used on ebay. Or break down and pay big bucks at a dealer.

 

Now here's something that I am reading and will divulge Writer.
Ailing Camshaft or Crankshaft Sensor...Random Stalling after heat through system...Intermittently....after release of throttle and car slowing down... Engine stalls...then will not restart till engine cools...Camshaft Sensor code...Code can be misleading as Crankshaft sensor may be culprit as the two are Synchronised...
Car relates to a Voyager 2.8 CRD 2007 Grande.
And for a change its in British Car Mechanics September edition, out now.
Other faults that this engine has also reported.
Goggs.

 

- lookie here