New here and new to Chrysler's. I just bought an older Sebring today, knowing it was going to have some "issues", but hopefully not serious ones I couldn't tinker to fix.

First up seems to be an issue with the heat, like it don't work. The blower works fine on all settings, but only blows out cold air through the defrost vents. It won't change to the other vent locations with the switch. And no heat.

Doing some googling I found a youtube video from someone who had a similiar problem where the fix was the white connector behnd the selector switch. Indeed it seemed loose so I unplugged it and plugged it back in firmly, making sure it was seated.

I then started the vehicle, with the control panel still removed, and VOILA! it started blowing hot air, an all the location settings worked. I thought I was golden! So I popped the panel back in and it immediately went back to cold, through the defrost vents.

So I popped it out again and it began blowing hot immediately, but then it started going from hot to cold randomly while I was holding the panel with the module attached.

Then I noticed the back of the module was warm on the left hand side, around where the black connector is behind the blower switch, so I started "jiggling" it and it started going from hot to cold.

Question(s), finally: Would it be normal for the switch to be warm at the back? Is it likely a bad switch, or a bad connector? How can I tell which it might be?

I did do the test for retrieving the codes and the only one it gave me was P 045:A/C control blend door input open or shorted with respect to ground (MTC only, wiring fault or bad servo)

I don't think it's the blend door, or servo itself, because while jiggling things, they seem to work correctly.

Thoughts?

 

That control head is a a common problem. I went from a bad one in my '01 to a junkyard replacement that also went bad to an OEM replacement from a dealer that finally worked. If you're really good with a soldering iron you might be able to take it apart and re-solder the contact points inside it but I would look for a replacement. The same part was used on Sebring and Dodge sedans and Sebring convertibles from 2001 through 2006 so there;s a good chance you'll find one. You've already found out that it's an easy swap-out.

 

Thank you for the information. I've already been looking at ebay replacements. Looks like around $25-30 with shipping. Already bought a similar one for my daughters Grand Prix from ebay with no issues so far, but will check with local salvage yards on Monday.

 

This being 2016, the part should still be available from dealerships. They carry parts for at least 10 years after the model year, so theoretically, they still can get parts for a 2006 model car.
If you want to go the salvage part route, tend toward a later, rather than an earlier donor vehicle in the 2001-2006 cycle as I think the later ones were slightly more reliable.

 

UPDATE:
My natural curiosity for "fixing" things got the better of me. Since I already decided to get a salvage yard unit, I decided to take mine apart and check out the board inside. What I found was that all the soldered pins, from the white connector, had broken solder connections. So, I broke out my trusty soldering iron and lighted magnifying glass. I re-soldered all the joints, put it back together, CAREFULLY attached the connectors and re-installed the panel and unit. HOT AIR, in all the correct locations. So for now, it looks like I'm fixed.

 

Hi
I'm new here and would like to get some help in locating the pcv valve on my 2002 sebring 2.4l DOHC


thanks for your attention
Dan

 

Also have the heater issue but the fan doesn't work on high (4) as well as intermittent switching from warm to cold air.

 

Dan, welcome to the forum. In future, if you have a problem you'd like to discuss, start a new thread and put a brief description of the problem in the title. That way, if you get a solution to your problem, others can benefit when they search for a similar problem. The system works best if you confine your thread or an existing thread to a unique problem.

The PCV valve controls the flow of fumes from the crankcase back into the intake manifold where they are mixed with incoming air/fuel to be burned in the cylinders. Look for a hose leading from either the valve cover or the top of the engine into the intake manifold. A worthwhile purchase is a shop manual like a Haynes or Chiltons that will be very useful for many minor repairs and routine maintenance. Even if you encounter a repair that you realize is beyond your capabilities, reading up on in the manual will allow you to discuss it more intelligently with the repairman.

As regards your heater issue, the answer is discussed in this thread above and elsewhere in this forum. Use the search function at the top of the page to find more discussions. To remove the heater control, it's best to get a set of trim tools. You can get them from Harbor Freight for less than $10. They are worth their weight in gold to allow you to take things apart without ruining them. Otherwise, using your fingers, pull straight out on the bottom of the plastic bezel that surrounds the heater control. It will pop out a little with a loud snap. Then using a trim tool or a wooden paint stirrer or ruler or something similar, pry the bezel and control away from the dash. Using a screwdriver or metal pry bar risks damaging the plastic of the dash pieces, so avoid doing that. Pull it out far enough to reach behind and disconnect the cables leading to it. Look carefully at the plugs to see how to un-clip them for removal.