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A/C Compressor/clutch problem

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  #11  
Old 04-29-2013, 01:07 PM
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Default A/C Oil- is PAG 46 same as SP-15 PAG?

Both O'Reilly's and Napa do not carry SP-15 PAG and don't know what it is. Both their systems call for PAG 46 for 2000 Sebring Convert.

[edit 4/30/13: I researched and found that PAG 46 came with the A/C kit installed 2 yrs ago, so PAG 46 oil it is this time too.
SP-15 seems to be a Sanden (OEM compressor) special part number. ]
 

Last edited by davekro; 04-30-2013 at 05:04 PM. Reason: added info
  #12  
Old 04-29-2013, 01:21 PM
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Do we know if your compressor failed or was it a clutch failure? I seem to remember that you were guessing that the compressor had failed and took the clutch with it but was that ever confirmed?

Compressors often come with their own oil charge. You need to know if this is true for the one you buy. Check the literature or ask the vendor/manufacturer to be sure.

Don't know about your condenser. If you are in doubt, you might want to replace that too. You probably will need to pull the radiator to get it out, but if you do, it will make access to everything else that much easier. The "in-line filter" is the receiver/dryer. It acts like a filter to collect debris as well as moisture.

As to your confusion regarding putting more refrigerant in than they took out, the system was down by the amount of the difference. The only way to be sure the correct amount of refrigerant is in there is to pull it all out and add back the correct amount.

The small amount of pollution generated by your proposed plan is about the same that occurs every time a crash results in a busted A/C system, which is to say something that occurs hundreds if not thousands of times every day. I won't turn you in.

If you replace the receiver/dryer and pull down the vacuum and it hold for 30 minutes, you are probably good to go. You want to charge into the evacuated system. If you are not replacing the dryer, then apply the vacuum for 30 minutes. You can help the process by gently warming the old dryer. Then see if it will hold vacuum on its own.
 
  #13  
Old 04-29-2013, 01:51 PM
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** Yes, I still need to ask the shop about clutch vs. compressor failure. If the shop believes it to be a clutch failure, can that be replaced while the compressor stays in place (and my freon system is left untouched!) That would be an answer to my prayers.
[Edit: Both O'Reilly's and Napa do not show clutch sold separately from Compressor. Is there any advantage if if was caused by clutch failure vs. compressor. Same part req'd to fix both.]

As I was laying out my most recent plan of installing the parts and maybe even having a buddy (HVAC tech) with the gauges/ vacuum equipment pull the vacuum to confirm no leaks on my install (and moisture removal),

Do I really need to go to the A/C shop to recharge the system with my 1.19 lbs of freon? Is my adding O'Reilly freon any different? ALthough, I'm not sure how to know precisely how much Freon goes into my just vacuumed system from the first 12 oz can of R134a and the partial amount from the second 12 oz. can.

The shop seems reasonably priced. Their A/C service (vacuum/leak test) is $59 (+ $18/lb of freon). A flush at this point would remove my oil, so not sure about that. Manual says add oil directly to supply and discharge ports on compressor
 

Last edited by davekro; 04-29-2013 at 01:59 PM.
  #14  
Old 04-29-2013, 05:20 PM
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Talk to the shop about just replacing the clutch. Some compressors are able to be fixed like that. You need some special tools to pull the clutch off and install the new one so it's not an easy DIY job. The compressor is usually disconnected from the car but not from the A/C system to do it. Thus the whole thing about refrigerant and oil is avoided. Since your compressor is not original, somebody knowledgeable will have to look at it and determine if it can be done.

You can install your own freon if you can pull a decent vacuum. The shop vac ain't gonna cut it though.
 
  #15  
Old 04-29-2013, 06:53 PM
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Originally Posted by dcotter0579
Talk to the shop about just replacing the clutch. Some compressors are able to be fixed like that. You need some special tools to pull the clutch off and install the new one so it's not an easy DIY job. The compressor is usually disconnected from the car but not from the A/C system to do it. Thus the whole thing about refrigerant and oil is avoided. Since your compressor is not original, somebody knowledgeable will have to look at it and determine if it can be done.

You can install your own freon if you can pull a decent vacuum. The shop vac ain't gonna cut it though.
Shop vac. LOL

Well, a new wrinkle. Went to shop but they were too busy to look at my car. I had turned the A/C on anticipating showing the guy and forgot to turn it off driving home. 90º day today. Friction from the malfunctioning clutch or compressor must have seized the pulley, because the AC/alternator belt snapped half way home. reaching in there with my hand, I am able to turn just the grooved part of the pully. But it is very hard to turn (outer plate does NOT spin). Looks like belt spun on pully until it heated up enough to snap.

{edit: I got the manufacturer on the phone. They do not service clutch seperately.}

Fun. Now tomorrow I have to replace the serpentine belt (and pwr strg too since both have 65k mi on them) since I still need to drive it until I figure out the AC issue.

[Edit -2: I just realized that if the pulley is not spinning freely now with engine off and no belt on it, it probably won't spin with the belt on either. The pulley is supposed to spin freely when AC is turned off. double crud.
 

Last edited by davekro; 04-29-2013 at 07:19 PM.
  #16  
Old 04-30-2013, 11:22 AM
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Default To add inline A/C filter or not?

I see a recommendation for adding a universal AC Delco inline filter (15-10413). Since I had a premature compressor failure (2 yrs), this sounds appealing. Is this a good idea? The Delco one ( http://www.ackits.com/tsi/inline.pdf ) has compression fittings. O'Reilly's crosses this # over to their Murray brand in a 3/8" or 1/2" which has threaded connections. Where would an inline filter be placed in the system?

I spoke to a good A/C shop guy. Very helpful and informative. He said if I was comfortable replacing the parts, it was no problem to bring in for him to evacuate/recharge. He said a flush can be a catch 22 and can sometimes dislodge gunk and 'cause' a problem. So with dcotter's thought that a flush is not necessary after having been done 2 years ago, I feel fine skipping a flush. But a filter still sounds good.

Then there was this:
http://www.acdelcotechconnect.com/pd...sb_05D-114.pdf page 4
COMPRESSOR SUCTION SCREEN
When compressors fail the debris can go toward both the condenser and the accumulator or evaporator. To protect replacement compressors without factory installed screens, installation of suction screens are strongly recommended. ACDelco has introduced a complete suction screen kit, Part Number 15-21184. Replacement screens are also available.
 
  #17  
Old 04-30-2013, 12:10 PM
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Default How much oil to add to new compressor?

A/C shop guy said compressor will usually come with oil, but he always pours it out to verify (he one a while back that had no oil), then pours it back in. Due to needing to replace compressor today, I'm getting a Murray brand from O'Reilly's. O'Reilly guy said theirs does not come with oil. The shop manual states amount of oil to add for all components except the compressor. The A/C shop guy said if it has no oil, add 2 oz. Does 2 oz. sound right to add back to compressor (after turning upside down to check for/ remove any oil in there?)
 
  #18  
Old 04-30-2013, 02:33 PM
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I have no idea whether those ACDelco (General Morors) parts will work in your Chrysler. The A/C shop you are working with may have some idea, or the manufacturer of your replacement compressor may have an opinion on the subject.
As for the amount of oil, I would stick to the manufacturer's recommendation for each component. Different compressors might have different requirements.
Don't mix oil types. Whatever you have in the system now, that's what you are going to have to put back in there. Mixing oil types can result in the oil gumming up. That's a bad thing.
 
  #19  
Old 07-06-2017, 04:59 AM
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We bought our 05 Pacifica literally 2 days ago and knew it had a sensor issue which isn't a big deal right now but literally yesterday (the day after I bought it) I was sitting in park with the ac on high trying to cool the car and all the sudden the ac quit blowing cold, in the next split second the very loud whining (like the way power steering whines but loud and constant) started and when I looked toward the hood there was a very slight bit of smoke that came from under the hood. I quickly turned the car off not knowing what the issue was. My husband turned the AC off and the noise stopped. In the Pacifica we have the AC stuff is way down at the bottom of the motor and since it's front wheel drive it is hard to get a good view of everything since the motor is turned. ALSO I forgot to add the previous owner gave me every receipt she had where she followed every scheduled maintenance suggested by mopar. She took great care of it but those papers also included where 2 years ago she replaced all the AC parts. So why two years later is the AC out again? I see this is very very common in these vehicles. I see a lot of people are replacing their ac every two years. a couple people sudgested universal inline filters and also sudgested for ac Delco compression suction screen. Has anyone found these filters to help? And can I add one of these filters to the AC system being that we are replacing only the clutch(hopefully) and not getting into any gas, fluids, vacuuming, etc?
We really can not afford $1000 right now to replace the AC and so any advice anyone may have would be so helpful. I have my fingers crossed I can find a clutch somewhere and this will get the ac back up and running. Thanks for taking time to read this. Any advice will help.
P.s. troubleshooting the ac did make me become aware of all the engine cradles people have had rust out. Without being on a lift and what I can see my 05 Pacifica has a lot of rust underneath. Do any of y'all know what Chrysler is or if they're doing anything to fix this? Has this been recalled?
 
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