Correct brake light switch for 98 sebring
#1
Correct brake light switch for 98 sebring
My brakelights stopped functioning and I traced the cause to the switch. Now, checking autoparts stores I am finding three different parts.
My car is the 2.5L with CC. Note, My CC does not work to begin with, and car is only driven by me.
Then there's parts for no CC, and obviously unneeded is the one for manual.
Also, what is a good place to buy them? I about had a fit when I saw they wanted 30 for a switch that is just a plunger and some copper
Thanks
My car is the 2.5L with CC. Note, My CC does not work to begin with, and car is only driven by me.
Then there's parts for no CC, and obviously unneeded is the one for manual.
Also, what is a good place to buy them? I about had a fit when I saw they wanted 30 for a switch that is just a plunger and some copper
Thanks
#2
When you search for parts for your Sebring, be sure to specify whether it is a coupe or convertible. They are totally different cars with almost no parts in common. The coupe is built by Mitsubishi, the convertible was built by Chrysler.
If you want cheap parts, comb the junkyards.
If you want cheap parts, comb the junkyards.
#3
Junkyards are nowhere near close. Drive would be the same as the cost, in gas.
Some sites list all Sebrings as compatible, when I am looking at a switch that will definitely not fit mine.
And what is the easiest way to remove these?
Some sites list all Sebrings as compatible, when I am looking at a switch that will definitely not fit mine.
And what is the easiest way to remove these?
#4
Update:
Took the switch out. Switch still has tension, and I cleaned all contacts. No help.
When I put a multi on the two larger terminals with the switch not pressed, my multi shows a closed circuit. When the plunger is depressed, the circuit is open..
Am I testing the right spades? And what else could this mean?
Took the switch out. Switch still has tension, and I cleaned all contacts. No help.
When I put a multi on the two larger terminals with the switch not pressed, my multi shows a closed circuit. When the plunger is depressed, the circuit is open..
Am I testing the right spades? And what else could this mean?
#6
I'll check in a bit, just got off work. The fuse and relay are good for the stop lights. Ground in the back is clean and tight..hoping it's just the switch.
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