Fuel pump '07 2.4
#11
Oops, sorry about that comment about the coupe, I was thinking yours was an '05.
Cranking should not affect the fuel pump wiring. The fuel pump is intended to run essentially continuously the whole time the car is driving, so long sessions of engine cranking should not affect it.
With that smell of gas I would not park it in the garage, though.
Cranking should not affect the fuel pump wiring. The fuel pump is intended to run essentially continuously the whole time the car is driving, so long sessions of engine cranking should not affect it.
With that smell of gas I would not park it in the garage, though.
#13
2006, Fuel pump 2.7 litre 6 cyl Sebring Touring
I had a fuel pump replaced at 55K - just died in trafic on day. The only thing I could think of I could have done wrong is added Fuel Line cleaner from a bottle. Maybe that burnt something in the pump. I dont know.
Anyway, dealer chaged me $1000 to change the pump!
I hear that you need to use a scan tool to de presureize the pum and clear the codes, when you install the pump, then you need to use the scasn tool to pressureize the pump. This is what I have read. Not sure if it really needs to be done using scan tools. Let me know what works.
GUS
Anyway, dealer chaged me $1000 to change the pump!
I hear that you need to use a scan tool to de presureize the pum and clear the codes, when you install the pump, then you need to use the scasn tool to pressureize the pump. This is what I have read. Not sure if it really needs to be done using scan tools. Let me know what works.
GUS
#14
I had a fuel pump replaced at 55K - just died in trafic on day. The only thing I could think of I could have done wrong is added Fuel Line cleaner from a bottle. Maybe that burnt something in the pump. I dont know.
Anyway, dealer chaged me $1000 to change the pump!
I hear that you need to use a scan tool to de presureize the pum and clear the codes, when you install the pump, then you need to use the scasn tool to pressureize the pump. This is what I have read. Not sure if it really needs to be done using scan tools. Let me know what works.
GUS
Anyway, dealer chaged me $1000 to change the pump!
I hear that you need to use a scan tool to de presureize the pum and clear the codes, when you install the pump, then you need to use the scasn tool to pressureize the pump. This is what I have read. Not sure if it really needs to be done using scan tools. Let me know what works.
GUS
Last edited by TNtech; 11-05-2010 at 09:20 PM.
#15
I have $110 in the pump change. If your pump was under the back seat, then that price is heavily excessive IMO. After I put the tank BACK ON after seeing the access panel, I changed it in about 15 minutes.
As far as depressurizing and pressurizing, I figure the pump going out and the car running out of gas depressurized everything. Building pressure I suppose is done when the pump finally gets fuel to the front. I did have an engine light come on along with a "gascap" show up on the odometer, but I had a line that was loose. I tightened it down and viola, the lights are off. No other issues so far.
As far as depressurizing and pressurizing, I figure the pump going out and the car running out of gas depressurized everything. Building pressure I suppose is done when the pump finally gets fuel to the front. I did have an engine light come on along with a "gascap" show up on the odometer, but I had a line that was loose. I tightened it down and viola, the lights are off. No other issues so far.
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