Thanks DC, and Liamon...Hey can I bug you with a couple more questions...
1-plastic scraper or wood block and gasket solvent right!....NO scraping....
2-It was ok for the machine shop to resurface the heads.....?? read some stuff
out on the net....you know how that is...They look good.. I can take a pic if your
curious..

 

Oh, Liamon..forgot to tell you..got a new cap, waterpump, and t'stat..reservoir appears to be ok..I check it again though..

 

Head pic

 

1- yes plastic or wood ..
2- it is OK

did you ckeck engine block if it is wrapped?
are you going to use gaskets from mopar ?

 

Laimon,

No haven't checked the block, been studing on how to handle the aluminum..didn't want to foul it up..I guess straight edge and feeler gauge for the block will be ok right? My plan is to use some gasket solvent and a plastic scaper or piece of wood for the tough stuff. Parts and Service sold me a Victor gasket set, and I also bought new bolts..what you think I haven't opened anything yet just looked at it..looks ok..

 

yes straight edge and feeler gauge will do the job but do it after cleaning/ scrapping engine block.

Victor ? i did use it once on my older sebring 96 and blow up after 6 months. it might be good product but up to my experience i would advise you to get mopar head gaskets, i think both,right & left are about 80$ from globalchryslerparts.com

 

Laimon,

I'll check out the globalchryslerparts....I'm not in any hurry on this, and want to do it right...I order a primary tensioner reset tool from Miller last night and it will be a couple of days before it gets here..thnaks for the advice..

 

Laimon,

Hey thanks a million didn't know about gobalparts....I can get the Mopar gasket kit 40 bucks cheaper than here in town...paid 170 for the Victor kit...130 for the Mopar I owe you man! Thanks again!

 

The block head gasket surfaces are clean now. Used only plastic and wood scrapers and some gasket remover from pematex...but block surface still looks like it needs to be shined up...would it be ok to use a blue scotchbrite pad or something on that line so that it will really be good and clean..

Also Haynes manual had heads removed with the exhaust manifolds attached to the heads....so installation in reverse order means exhaust manifolds back on again then install the heads and torque...

 

i don't know much about shining with this chrysler tech or dc can help you.

in regards to exhaust, depends if you work solo, if the engine is out or in ..ofcourse it is easier for you to mount the manifold before, but head will be heavier and hard to handle. you may damage or scratch the head surface while trying to mount on engine block.