I have a 2006 Chrysler 300C SRT8 whcih was a fun car to drive, when it was working, but this last year has really tested my patience with this brand. Overall I am completely dissatisfied with Chrysler. After a year of researching this car and waiting for it to become available, I found a used one for sale, and was in my price range as well. It had just over 71,000 miles on it, so not too bad.

3 years later is when all of the problems started:
Ignition coil fuse blowing - replaced all sensors, wireless receiver, new TIPM, had the car reprogrammed to match the key to the receiver and TIPM, even purchased and installed a new starter.

The car drove fine, better than when I purchased it, for about 5 months, then recently and suddenly, I had issues starting the car when the engine was warm, not hot, but just warm. After driving it for 2 miles and/or 10 minutes, I could not get the car to start again. It drags like it has a dead battery. After attempting to start the car 3 times, the starter would end up burning up my ground wires.

I ran a battery voltage check and when the engine is not running, checks out at 12.5 Volts. When the engine is running it checks in at 14 Volts.

Corrosion: There is no corrosion around the posts or the connecting ends of the wires. Everything looks clean from a visual perspective. To test any corrosion or breaks in the core wires, I ran continuity tests.

Continuity Checks:
The battery ground cable has full continuity with no resistance - came back with a tone and 0 Ohms.
The positive battery cable to starter solenoid has full continuity - came back with a tone and 0 Ohms.
The fusible link between the starter and the alternator has full continuity - came back with a tone and 0 Ohms

After this I decided to install a new starter, thinking this was the problem.

With the new starter installed, today the same thing happened again. The starter attempted to engage, dragged and then that was it. The engine did not turn over.

The problem I have with these cars is the diagnostics all point to one thing, and that one thing is not it. In this instance, my diagnostics all pointed to the starter going bad and I made a choice to replace it. But that was not the problem. It is something else.

Any ideas would be appreciated, otherwise I'm going to donate this car to a charity for auction. These cars are garbage and too expensive to troubleshoot and repair.

 

Is it a new battery or an old battery?

I have seen old batteries manage to put out 12volts before but just act erractic when any load is on them, might be worth borrowing a donner battery off somebody if possible for a few days to rule that out.

Failing that it sounds like the starter could be catching on something when attempting to "turn", this is where the limits of my mechanical knowledge ends, so I can't suggest what to do now but will have a think for you.

 

Ok so looking at the attached site: https://www.howacarworks.com/basics/...g-system-works

I would be inclined to say it's the gear on the flywheel that it's talking about, might be missing a few teeth on it, which could be causing the issue every so often as it would depend on the position of where that gear is when you stop the engine and when you try to start, it skips on the missing teeth but gets rocked, so does eventually start.

Of course this is a theory and there is a possibility that you just have a dodgy replacement starter.

 

Be ware of auto parts store "rebuilt/reconditioned" starters. Oftentimes they are merely repainted in Mexico.

 

I took it into a trusted auto repair shop whom my dad used for a transmission problem, and they resolved the issue. They told me there were some misplaced ground wires, and a couple of loose ones as well. Not sure how that happened as I have not touched any ground wires or moved any. Guess I'll have to keep an eye on those for future reference. Thanks for all of the replies. Good insights with additional items to be aware of and consider.