code p3425 and a Big headache
Seen that post and seems similar to mine but does not really explain to much other then taking it to the stealership which I refuse to pay them premium prices...
Will call my local mechanic tomorrow and see if it is ok to drive the way it is until I get back from out west, she seems to run like a dream other than the "fuel saver" message not appearing anymore.
from what I have searched and searched some people just drive it with this bad solenoid and say mds is terrible anyways and in a round about way made the hemi run better because they hate the mds feature.
Will call my local mechanic tomorrow and see if it is ok to drive the way it is until I get back from out west, she seems to run like a dream other than the "fuel saver" message not appearing anymore.
from what I have searched and searched some people just drive it with this bad solenoid and say mds is terrible anyways and in a round about way made the hemi run better because they hate the mds feature.
But would love to hear from a Chrysler mechanic for sure!! Just do not have the time before I leave to get to this problem, cross my fingers.... but today, I drive almost one hour to work and the only reason I noticed anything wrong was because it was not going into fuel saver mode, like I said it runs perfect, very smooth and responsive no vibrations, runs so quiet you can not tell it running at idle or stop light.
my 5.7 hemi aspen has also the fault code P3425 and also a not working mds / cylinder deactivation.
I had measured all four solenoids. Remove the left wheelhouse the you see the connector on the left side, in the back of the cylinder.
Two of them had a contact fault in the switch. Every time i measured the resistance, with multimeter and small contacts, there is going better.
After cleaning the contacts it was a good resistance on all four solenoids.This is good since more than 1000miles.
Some others had faulty cables, from solenoids to switch, but there where looking good.
I had measured all four solenoids. Remove the left wheelhouse the you see the connector on the left side, in the back of the cylinder.
Two of them had a contact fault in the switch. Every time i measured the resistance, with multimeter and small contacts, there is going better.
After cleaning the contacts it was a good resistance on all four solenoids.This is good since more than 1000miles.
Some others had faulty cables, from solenoids to switch, but there where looking good.
Hi all new to this site
Have a couple questions concerning my 2008 aspen,
First is today the mds stopped working and found a code p3425, my question is I have a rather long trip to take in a few days and am wondering if running the Aspen with the mds malfunction will hurt anything? I am running 5w20 oil so that not the issue.
Second question is can a walworld brand synthetic 5w20 cause problems like this. I have had way to many problems with this since purchasing from gas cap message to egr valve to random missfire (p0300) and now this......
Have a couple questions concerning my 2008 aspen,
First is today the mds stopped working and found a code p3425, my question is I have a rather long trip to take in a few days and am wondering if running the Aspen with the mds malfunction will hurt anything? I am running 5w20 oil so that not the issue.
Second question is can a walworld brand synthetic 5w20 cause problems like this. I have had way to many problems with this since purchasing from gas cap message to egr valve to random missfire (p0300) and now this......
If it were my truck, I'd go ahead and repair the issue before a road trip, if only for the mpg gain (and to be SURE you're not going to be left stranded!). Or at least get it diagnosed by your local mechanic to rule out any other issues, particularly if you're experiencing any vibration, etc. when driving.
Here's a thread from someone that was experiencing similar issues awhile back -- https://www.chryslerforum.com/forum/...p-light-22261/
I'm not a mechanic (only shade tree), but there are Chrysler mechanics that hang around here that might have additional input for you.
Here's a thread from someone that was experiencing similar issues awhile back -- https://www.chryslerforum.com/forum/...p-light-22261/
I'm not a mechanic (only shade tree), but there are Chrysler mechanics that hang around here that might have additional input for you.
Why are you asking for help with your 300 in the Aspen section in a thread that has nothing to do with keys? I'd suggest doing a proper search for your issue in the correct section. If that yields no results, start your own thread with your issue in the proper section. However, if you lost your key, I'm sure the response you will get from everyone is see the dealer for a new key. No one here is going to tell you how to hotwire your car.
Hi Aspen13:
Hope all is well.
A decade back, you wrote "Remove the left wheelhouse the you see the connector on the left side, in the back of the cylinder.
Two of them had a contact fault in the switch."
I have maybe a similar problem and am trying to better understand what you did to get to these "connectors." I want to find mine and inspect them. Can you please describe more what you did? Can you perhaps find a diagram of the area where these connectors are found? Is the "wheelhouse" what is above the tire wheel well that when removed would expose the are near the exhaust headers? I am trying to picture what you refer to.
Than you very much for your insight.
2007 Aspen 5.7 with a P3400 code that won't stay off.
Hope all is well.
A decade back, you wrote "Remove the left wheelhouse the you see the connector on the left side, in the back of the cylinder.
Two of them had a contact fault in the switch."
I have maybe a similar problem and am trying to better understand what you did to get to these "connectors." I want to find mine and inspect them. Can you please describe more what you did? Can you perhaps find a diagram of the area where these connectors are found? Is the "wheelhouse" what is above the tire wheel well that when removed would expose the are near the exhaust headers? I am trying to picture what you refer to.
Than you very much for your insight.
2007 Aspen 5.7 with a P3400 code that won't stay off.
my 5.7 hemi aspen has also the fault code P3425 and also a not working mds / cylinder deactivation.
I had measured all four solenoids. Remove the left wheelhouse the you see the connector on the left side, in the back of the cylinder.
Two of them had a contact fault in the switch. Every time i measured the resistance, with multimeter and small contacts, there is going better.
After cleaning the contacts it was a good resistance on all four solenoids.This is good since more than 1000miles.
Some others had faulty cables, from solenoids to switch, but there where looking good.
I had measured all four solenoids. Remove the left wheelhouse the you see the connector on the left side, in the back of the cylinder.
Two of them had a contact fault in the switch. Every time i measured the resistance, with multimeter and small contacts, there is going better.
After cleaning the contacts it was a good resistance on all four solenoids.This is good since more than 1000miles.
Some others had faulty cables, from solenoids to switch, but there where looking good.
After a year the same fault was coming again. Then it was a circuit break in a solenoid cable.
First i measured it, circuit break, then i had to remove the intake, then it was clear, the cable where more pipe than cable, dried and burn out. I had changed the cable from solenoid to the connector and sametime all the solenoids.
good since minimum 30000miles.
First i measured it, circuit break, then i had to remove the intake, then it was clear, the cable where more pipe than cable, dried and burn out. I had changed the cable from solenoid to the connector and sametime all the solenoids.
good since minimum 30000miles.
Thanks for your information. I'll have to do some soul searching to decide if I want the intake pulled again - solenoids replaced once before - 6 years and 51k miles ago - $850 USD then, probably $1,600 USD this time. Thanks again!
These cables under the intake dont have much place, at some points they are pushed down to the hot engine block (between intake and engine block).
go for sure, that when you refit the intake, the cables have enough place.
I removed a bit plastic from underneath the intake to get more space.
go for sure, that when you refit the intake, the cables have enough place.
I removed a bit plastic from underneath the intake to get more space.
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