I am about to do this job on my own and have a couple questions. Do I really need to remove the tie rod from the steering knuckle to get at it or can I do without that? Also, does the new bushing need to be greased on the inside at all?

 

Just finished that very job a couple of hours ago. It's plenty tight working under there, but it can be done. If they had given us an extra 1/2" clearance to the steering rack, it would have been much easier.

I did separate the tie rod ends, but I would think it can be done without doing that. Be sure to remove the inner fender linings, however. If you don't, they'll constantly be in the way.

Also, I had to remove both the front and rear retaining bolts in order to get the bushing retainers back on. Supposedly, you can just loosen the rear bolts and slide the sway bar forward after removing the front bolts. I basically had zero clearance to the steering arms, so removing both front and rear bolts was my only option.

If you haven't already done so, you'll want to replace the sway bar links with a new pair, too. Be sure to get the ones with grease fittings in the ends. They make a world of difference.

They tell you not to grease the new bushings, but with so many creaks and groans coming from underneath the car, I opted to spray them with silicone lube. before mounting them. For now, the car is as quiet as a tomb. At last!!

Good luck!

 

Ok, so using the info provided in another thread I was able to source aftermarket polyurethane bushings made by Energy Suspension. These are not direct fit but they bolt on with the new brackets that are included with the kit.

The part number is 9.5169R. the bracket needs a slight modification, I cut one one of the bolt slots straight through to match how the factory bracket was. This makes it easier for install and to make sure the bolts are straight for the reinstall. You do not want to cross thread the nut in the engine cradle, the slots on the new bracket are right at the limit of the bolt holes. Also you will need to put something around the stabilizer bar to keep it from moving as the new bushings are narrower. I used industrial zip ties.

Any questions just post back, I am subscribed to is thread and get an email when there is a post.

The car handles like it is on rails now. no waddling going down the road or clunking.

It took me 2.5 hours, and I did not unbolt the rack or end links. All work was done thru the respective wheel well with jack stands.

Jay

Jay

 

Good news! I will try it without taking the tie rods off. Did you need to replace the clips for the wheel wells or are they reusable? Where did you put the jack stands?

 

I bought new clips at the hardware store. I jacked the car up and then placed a stand under the control arm. This takes the preload off the sway bar.

I mis-spoke earlier. I did have to disconnect the sway bar end link to give the swaybar movement needed to get the new bushing in, but did not have to loosen the rack or outer tie rods.

You will need:
15mm 6-point socket
Short extension
1/2 -> 3/8 adapter
1/2" drive ratchet
PB Blaster
19 or 21 mm socket for the end link
Large adjustable wrench for the end link

Jay

 

You will need the zip ties or something else to hold the bar centered as well. I used zip ties. The new bushings are narrower giving the bar room to travel in the bushings before the stock guides stop it.

Jay

 

I purchased OEM bushings from my local Mopar dealer. I think I paid about $8.50 each for them.

I jacked the car on the main frame members, and placed the jack stands just ahead of the body mounting bolts. Plenty safe, as you only need enough height to remove the wheels.

Again, I did separate the tie rods from the steering knuckles. After 118K, they took a little convincing with a 3 lb. sledgehammer, but they eventually gave. I definitely needed them free, as I had to work the rack left and right and strap the steering arms to the struts in order to get enough clearance to even get an open-end wrench onto the front retainer bolts. There is stupid-little clearance in there!