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2006 running fine, then stalled, cranks fine, no combustion now

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2006 running fine, then stalled, cranks fine, no combustion now

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Old 08-29-2018, 04:40 PM
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Default 2006 running fine, then stalled, cranks fine, no combustion now

I have a 2006 non-turbo automatic PT that has run pretty fine in 2 years ownership. Today, pulling away from home, engine suddenly died, as if the ignition had been switched off. Just instantly OFF. Coasted to stop, put in PARK, it will crank fine, but no hint of combustion. Battery is fine (engine cranks fine). I checked, there are NO CODES. A couple months ago changed plugs, wires & some position sensor that would cause limp mode. Other than that one sensor, it has run fine. I know the basic question is fuel or spark, whatís missing. Anyone with similar experience on the 2006-type drivetrain have any good ideas how best to isolate the problem? Is there a major fuse, switch or relay that suddenly, completely kills the ignition like Iíve experienced? Really puzzled, but handy with a multimeter. All feedback appreciated.
 
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Old 08-29-2018, 07:06 PM
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OK, it's lack of fuel related, spark is fine. I sprayed starting fluid into the intake, the engine tries to run, so I've got spark. What the heck would suddenly turn off fuel as I experienced earlier ?? Fuse to an electric fuel pump ?? I'll dig a little deeper, anyone chime in, please.
 
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Old 08-29-2018, 07:59 PM
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A little more info: on another 2006 PT, turbo-automatic, when I turn the key to ON, there is definitely a couple-second, clearly audible Hmmmmmmmm with sort of a CLICK at the end of the Hmmm. My 2006 PT non-turbo-automatic makes no similar Hmmmmmm at all, though I do hear a click. Does the Hmmmmmm sound (on a working 2006 PT) represent the fuel pump briefly running to pressurize a fuel line, then cycle off when pressurized? And it follows to conclude my non-turbo fuel pump isn't similarly running then cycling off? I'd appreciate any confirmation available..... I'll chase that line of thinking....
 
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Old 08-29-2018, 08:16 PM
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take the fue pump relay out jump pin 30 and 87 do you hear it turn on? if not more then likely bad fuel pump
 
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Old 08-30-2018, 09:42 AM
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Originally Posted by CHRYSLER TECH View Post
take the fuel pump relay out jump pin 30 and 87 do you hear it turn on? if not more then likely bad fuel pump
Kevin, Iíd love to do that, pull a relay & maybe check for the voltage that powers the pump, & temporarily bypass the relay as you advise, to power the pump & hear the missing Hmmmm. Trying to locate the relay, there is a lot of confusing info on the web, including that the relay doesnít exist. Could you just explain where it is, maybe post a picture, to solve the question of its existence & location? Doing so will sure make a lot of people happy.
 
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Old 08-30-2018, 10:43 AM
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Ahhh looks like yours is built int the TIPM so its computer controls no way for you to test it unless you have a scanner that can turn it on and off. Only other way would be to get a power probe g to teh tank and add your ow power and ground to the pump see if it works or not.
 
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Old 08-30-2018, 03:43 PM
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IF there is no fuel pump relay or fuse, nothing user serviceable... Iíd like to confirm that the fuel pump is defective, by 1st confirming that when +12Vdc is being applied to the pump, the pump isnít running when properly powered. Iím handy with a multimeter. Maybe I can get underneath & disconnect the wiring harness to the fuel pump. Might you or someone else here know which color wire going to that connector is the +12Vdc power line?
 
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Old 09-04-2018, 08:47 AM
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deleted, mistaken in my assumptions
 

Last edited by den458; 09-04-2018 at 11:45 AM. Reason: deleted, mistaken in my assumptions
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Old 09-04-2018, 01:47 PM
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I've run out of time right now trying to find the four wire schematic for the fuel pump module. FRESH ASSUMPTIONS: I think it is an industry-standard flat 4-pin connector associated with the fuel pump. I'm guessing there's power & ground for the pump, & the other 2 wires represent the fuel-level function, like a variable resistor, changing value as the fuel level varies with use. These are my assumptions. When back at this in a couple weeks, if no one offers up the info before then, maybe I can reverse engineer the schematic by taking a closer look at a similar, working fuel pump module I removed from a Smart ForTwo because the output fitting leaked. The process should be simple: using an ohmmeter, identify which 2 (of four) pins vary in resistance based on the position of the float arm; the remaining 2 pins must be power & ground for the pump. Again, these are my assumptions. Thanks to all who've given this some thought !
 
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