I drove the van home from work to eat lunch and when I got back in it had no dash lights and would crank and start but stalled out 3 times then it wouldn’t crank at all. Just more information the key fob stopped working the day before unless you manually unlocked the drivers door then it would work for 5/10 mins then stop. The fuel pump does prime and the starter relay is good and does click. I’m trying to figure out if it’s the PCM or BCM or FCM. The battery is good and charged and I have checked and put good fuses in it. Here’s a list of what does work and what doesn’t work

WORKS
the power windows
the power locks ( the key fob doesn’t work at all now)
the blower a/c and heat
the radio
all of the dome lights
the transmission will shift even tho the lights on the dash do not
the power mirrors
the headlights work but only when the key is turned and they stay on and won’t go off
the hazard lights
the turn signals work

DOES NOT WORK
The dash lights
the windshield whippers
the key fob
it won’t let you read the engine codes
the power doors and the trunk, you can get the trunk open with the key but the power doors seem to be stuck

 

Hey sorry I don't have a resolution for you but I kinda have the same issues as you as of right now.
Does your car have the red security light on on the dash currently? Normally it goes off after a few seconds after turning the key on. Mine stays solid currently. And the shift indicator squircle doesn't display around the PRND2 on the dash and I can't communicate w/ my car through the OBD2 port.
I've tried to swap used parts (FCM & IPM along w/ PCM) without any success so far. I feel like the security system is currently locking out the vehicle from starting for some apparent reason.
I subscribed to your post here...hopefully a tech or someone can help point us in the correct direction.

 

Here you say it goes Click to start. AND Doesn't engage by what you say..Emmmm hard one this. Done it, had it, seen it..Bisto Gravey...STARTER or terminals...Must be worth a Bannana at least..

 

Checking the fuses is a good start. All the connections are not mentioned in the fuse box cover... For example: dash might get dark because of the hazard light fuse. And the fuse was blown because the side indicator rubber protection shield inside the fender has moved a little. And so on....

 

Ok i finally fixed my car. The fuel pump fuse was blown so it wouldn't start or let me connect to obd2 port.
As for the PCM, it's pretty bullet proof. It's just a pcb with tracings to connect the different connectors coming off of it. Only way it can go bad is a bad solder of connector pin on the board where it broke loose over time through vibration. You can take the PCM apart pretty easily & check. Only thing tricky is Chrysler cheaped out & had 4 loose pins that's not soldered to the board at all so putting out back together is a bit tricky. I used hot glue to glue pins to pcb which help keep them in position when i put them back together.
As for the FCM, they are interchangeable between cars (not programmed to specific car). I picked up 2 of them with the same part numbers but different manufacturing dates & they all work in my car.


I bought a PCM also but i haven't tried to plug it in to see if it'll start my car or not. I'll report back if i get around to testing it.
good luck.

 

I am having the EXact same problem with my 2006. If I find anything I will post it. PLEASE if anyone figures this out please post!