Abs
I did see these on eBay, but i thought a bit hit and miss after coughing up £££ for checking the car out, then finding am fitting a duff sensor, So went for the original part,I knew then i cant go wrong.
I think the damaged sensor here (front off side) has happened to mine. These are two-wire hall-effect sensors which can't be tested easily at home. You need a scanner to check them electronically to identify faulty ones as the output when working is only millivolts, and has to be amplified. To a simple ohm-meter the two wires read like a diode (which is what it is), a hall-effect p-type silicon diode.
Chrysler were among the first to go hall-effect, GVs from 1999 on are said to be of this type. Hall-effect sensors produce the same output no matter how slow the tone wheel is turning, whereas simple pulse-coils have an output which falls with falling speed, known as the constant velocity effect. This also applies to the magnetic pick-up cartridge in your old fashioned record player. hence the huge amount of bass-boost needed in the so-called equalization amp.
Leedsman.
Chrysler were among the first to go hall-effect, GVs from 1999 on are said to be of this type. Hall-effect sensors produce the same output no matter how slow the tone wheel is turning, whereas simple pulse-coils have an output which falls with falling speed, known as the constant velocity effect. This also applies to the magnetic pick-up cartridge in your old fashioned record player. hence the huge amount of bass-boost needed in the so-called equalization amp.
Leedsman.
Last edited by Leedsman; May 7, 2016 at 01:40 PM.
http://easyautodiagnostics.com/misc-...ensor-basics-3
In addition to my other posting re. wheel ABS sensors, the above gives you a handy way of testing these hall-effect devices without oscilloscopes or other expensive items.
NB. Forgot to mention...
Damage often happens to wheel hall-effect sensors when after a long time the tone wheel rusts, and bits of rust are flung off (as the wheel is rotating!) and get stuck in the gap between the magnet end of the sensor and the tone wheel. ALSO --- if the tone wheel is packed with rust, the signal output from the hall-effect sensor will drop alarmingly. Iron oxide is just as magnetic as steel. Try some rust on a magnet. That's how your old-fashioned tape recorder works.
You need to carefully dig out all the rust between cogs with a small screwdriver, and with a larger (old) screwdriver, scrape off all rust elsewhere on the tone wheel. Use a suspension arm as a lever for the latter operation. Then a wire brushing as best you can with a very small wire brush all over everywhere on the tone ring.
Note that two pole hall sensors are part of a "current loop" configuration, less affected by glitches than the three-wire ones often found on ignition circuits, crank sensors etc.
Leedsman.
In addition to my other posting re. wheel ABS sensors, the above gives you a handy way of testing these hall-effect devices without oscilloscopes or other expensive items.
NB. Forgot to mention...
Damage often happens to wheel hall-effect sensors when after a long time the tone wheel rusts, and bits of rust are flung off (as the wheel is rotating!) and get stuck in the gap between the magnet end of the sensor and the tone wheel. ALSO --- if the tone wheel is packed with rust, the signal output from the hall-effect sensor will drop alarmingly. Iron oxide is just as magnetic as steel. Try some rust on a magnet. That's how your old-fashioned tape recorder works.
You need to carefully dig out all the rust between cogs with a small screwdriver, and with a larger (old) screwdriver, scrape off all rust elsewhere on the tone wheel. Use a suspension arm as a lever for the latter operation. Then a wire brushing as best you can with a very small wire brush all over everywhere on the tone ring.
Note that two pole hall sensors are part of a "current loop" configuration, less affected by glitches than the three-wire ones often found on ignition circuits, crank sensors etc.
Leedsman.
Nice to welcomed back, thanks. My brother who is 87 has had a bad "do" in hospital, needing to stay for three weeks, he was found by the next door neighbor collapsed in the bedroom with hypothermia, and I've had all sorts to do, inc. getting power of attorney and many other things you wouldn't believe. I've been trying to find a house (for myself) too, but it's a mad market full of Mafia estate agents. Hence I've got nowhere so far.
Anyhoo, things have stabilized a bit, and I've redesigned a solar-cell charger to work anywhere for people in flats that can't get a power line to the car park (I was looking for a place)... So I'll put it on here when I can get time, all the design and testing is done. Works great in poor overcast light.
Cheers, Leedsman.
Anyhoo, things have stabilized a bit, and I've redesigned a solar-cell charger to work anywhere for people in flats that can't get a power line to the car park (I was looking for a place)... So I'll put it on here when I can get time, all the design and testing is done. Works great in poor overcast light.
Cheers, Leedsman.
Last edited by Leedsman; May 7, 2016 at 01:38 PM.
All this for a Sensor yet again. Last one on here I think changed the ABS module before finding it was a sensor. My new sensors measured 0.480M Ohms by the way.
Oh and Wellcome back Leedsman you've been missed...
Oh and Wellcome back Leedsman you've been missed...
Last edited by goggs; May 7, 2016 at 02:23 PM. Reason: Adding some needed wellcome
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