Chrysler Voyager & Town & Country The first and foremost name in minivans leading the class since their inception in the 1980s

Back in the game (nearly)

Old Jan 30, 2016 | 02:31 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by AlanC
Has something happened to Leedsman?
Don't know Al, but see my other post - he's gone AWOL. Good member and sadly missed. If he has gone back to old Daimler Jag's he's changed a lifetime habit of using the same net-nym.
 
Old Jan 31, 2016 | 12:41 PM
  #32  
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On the buttonMOD Anyone know where Leedsmans post on the buttonMOD was, giving the values of the resistance and the actual construct of the MOD ? - I've found the pic of it [below] but no more info on it. andyb2000 - any ideas ?

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Old Jan 31, 2016 | 02:48 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by QinteQ
On the buttonMOD Anyone know where Leedsmans post on the buttonMOD was, giving the values of the resistance and the actual construct of the MOD ? - I've found the pic of it [below] but no more info on it. andyb2000 - any ideas ?
Is this the thread you are searching for?: Of interest to those getting flat batteries.
 
Old Jan 31, 2016 | 04:34 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by georgef
Is this the thread you are searching for?: Of interest to those getting flat batteries.
Thanks for that George, you got it in one, I'd read and disregarded that page, Leedsman and others had a long debate about its efficacy, some did the MOD and others might benefit from knowing how. Obviously I'd gone word blind because its starting me in the face. Thanks my friend.

14.4volt is the 'old' charging voltage as used to be.

It consists of inserting a 33K0 (33,000ohm) half or one watt simple carbon film type resistor (worth about 10p.) in series with the live 5volt lead to the "cold battery sensor" mounted under the battery tray. On my GV, the leads are easily accessible coming out from under the battery tray, and on mine are colored blue and brown. The blue is the earthy one, the brown is the 'live' at around 5volt. I just used a small connector block to do the job. The circuit is "dead" at IGN. off, there's no need to disconnect anything. Cut the brown lead, strip back and insert into a small connector block of the 2A. type. Fit the 33K0 resistor on the other side of the connector block so the resistor becomes in series with the brown lead.

Caution: These colours are on MY diesel GV., they MAY be different on yours! But the sensor is easy to find, just slip your hand under the battery tray.


Now ∀ndy Brown .. .. do you want to make a tidy slip-in-clip-in miniMOD ? with pics, a full walkthrough telling people here exactly what to get from where and how to make their own as a legacy gift to LeedsMan ?

Different / but same problem - I've already built the super-CAPMOD and it was unsuccessful or rather too expensive at this time with flaky cheepo supercaps, so disregarded because the NOCO came on the market and is a cracking little bit of kit at GB30. The GB70 is an absolute animal but too salty a price whereas the moderate GB30 does the job for our 2.8's @ 30% of the retail GB70 price.
 
Old Feb 4, 2016 | 03:27 AM
  #35  
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The Voyager cut out on the M6 a couple of times, so she's getting recovered. The recovery agent didn't have a driver with enough hours left to get up to Scotland so they gave me a car to get me home.

The seller had done all the belts and serviced the car, including new fuel filter. It had only done 10 miles since the service, then the 20 miles I'd done, so hoping it's someone left an O ring on the fuel filter housing and has put on another with the new filter. Failing that, there's the housing on ebay with new wiring for £160 next day delivery. Both easy to check.
The symptoms are the exact same as when my 2002 was cutting out, to solve that, I removed and refitted the filter bowl a bit tighter (under the car in the 2.5).
Once it's recovered home, I'll have a look and hope for one of the above. In hindsight I should have got the RAC guy to check at the roadside.

That aside, it needs the thermostat mod (sat just above 1/4 temp) and I'll check the charging voltage when it gets here as the new battery could be an indication of an issue there.
 

Last edited by Scotsman4th; Feb 11, 2016 at 02:36 PM.
Old Feb 4, 2016 | 07:34 AM
  #36  
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I made a post some long time ago on this forum where both the O ring was not tight and the water trap [white plastic] water drain tap was 'rattlingly' slack.

BTW that Voyager picture is .................. er ?
 
Old Feb 4, 2016 | 08:00 AM
  #37  
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My courtesy car lol. That's what I ended up coming home in.

I've pulled the plug from the filter and it looks ok so I'll get underneath and get the filter off.

Edit to add, the filter wasn't loose as such but it was removable with ease. Fingers crossed.
 

Last edited by Scotsman4th; Feb 4, 2016 at 09:18 AM.
Old Feb 4, 2016 | 02:59 PM
  #38  
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The filter is usually a 'starting up tickover only' leak-back type issue, in truth the oil change type servicing is given to the disinterested trainee listing to boynke boynk music who remembers to prime the filter but forgets to nip up the top seal & the trap seal. So it starts 1st time and does its thing properly - however when left to drain back overnight .......... take care.
 
Old Feb 5, 2016 | 10:53 AM
  #39  
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That's me covered 70 miles, various driving styles, and she's not cut out once since tightening the filter.
Fingers crossed.
 
Old Feb 5, 2016 | 12:55 PM
  #40  
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My friend the motor mechanic is working on a spares or repair Renault 1.9DCI at the moment. He got it cheap of course even though its an 07 reg. It had been from Garage to Garage to Garage with not starting and cutting out problems and no one could fix it. So anyway he checked injectors of course then while examining the fuel pipework he found one of the quick fit fuel filter fittings wasn't fully home. Hence, I know silly, silly, it now starts and runs. So Scotsman's fault is quite common.
 

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