I have a few issues with my '02 town and country lx. (I hope I can remember them all)

1- radio does not work. used car lot gave us another one and that doesn't work. (I miss having a clock!)

2- chime does not work. I'm forever leaving my lights on, I turn on the parking lights to illuminate the dash so I can see it better on cloudy/rainy days. the chime does not work for lights on, keys in ignition, etc.

3- door locks. I use the power lock buttons, and nothing happens. I don't know how to lock the van if I don't do it manually. Speaking of locks...

4- how do I work the liftgate? the power button does not work the liftgate. In order to open it, I have to turn the key at the same time I'm pushing the handle to get it to open.

5- this super annoying thing with the windows. There are smudges and smears everywhere!! Last night, in the rain, it appeared as if the smears were gone...but there was a weird streaking of all the lights. Headlights, streetlights, traffic lights, tail lights, retail signage lights. I got this van on friday. It's now monday. I've been trying to clean these windows for 3 days!!!! I used: sudsy water with dawn; auto glass cleaner, using paper towels, soft towels, and newspaper. My next option is to use toothpaste with a soft cloth, and if that doesn't work I'm using a foaming bathroom cleaner. If that fails, then I'll go to a glass place to see if they can recommend something.

I love this van, I would love it better if I could find a way to fix it!

thank you for reading this far...I'm really at the end of my rope

 

Hi there,
Welcome to the GV tribe! Hopefully we can help you figure out some of these problems.
Actually, I'm suspecting 1,2,3,4 are all related as they sound like the IOD power supply isn't good.

First place, check in the fusebox for IOD fuse and make sure it's OK. IOD fuse us often removed when storing the car or because of high current drain when idle. It provides power to almost all of the problems you mention there.



After that, I'm suspecting the BCM might have a problem as 1,2,3,4 are all linked to the BCM for control, and that could have had some mods done in the past (Did it have an aftermarket radio in it by any chance? As that often requires a modification to force the amplifier to be on all the time).

Post back and let us know after checking IOD as that's the first easy bet!

On the windows, it sounds like some form of oily film has built up on them somehow. Toothpaste may damage the windows (I've seen that on headlights, etc, but never used on windows) so I think I'd try something like a de-greaser (kitchen cleaner) on one window, CAREFULLY and see if that helps!

Good luck and remember to post back.

 

hi, andyb2000; my husband just popped the hood, found the fuse, and saw a VERY small hairline crack right through the middle of the fuse. It's blown. He could barely see it, but its there.

the radio is (factory, oem, original, I'm not a car girl, so I don't know the lingo!), and the used car lot gave us a new one. Same one...6 cd changer and tape player. neither one work, and I would hope its related to that iod fuse.

He's at the store now buying a new fuse, we'll put it in and crank it up and see what happens. I'll write back and let you know!

Now if only you could help me find my keys! lol

 

update -

omg! I don't even know how to thank you, except to say; Thank You. Thank you for reading and thank you for replying. It was all the iod fuse. My husband had taken that radio apart, all the circuitry looked fine. The radio that came with the van doesn't work, the one the used car lot gave us does work. The dome lights work! The door chime works, the lift gate works without having to use the key! I think I can finally enjoy my "new" van now My husband just wanted to pass along his thanks as well. You have helped make me very happy

Now to return that in dash radio thing we bought yesterday. I told my husband not to open it until we tried all your suggestions...so now you helped save us $90.

Thanks again!

lysa

 

Excellent, yes always revert to the easy things first before going any deeper into it! I'm so glad it's helped and hope you enjoy your Grand Voyager, they're great and the people in the forums here will always help out where we can :-)

 

A lesson for all. Got an electrical problem check the fuses first. Pretty safe bet we've all been bitten by that one.

 

Hi, I have a Grand Voyager 2,5CRD yr 2002, made in Austria (at the Daimler factory in the Graz)

I have a problem, just occurred a week ago: the IOD fuse blows...
I have SOME of the symptoms the thread starter listed too...
My Voy has a brand new Battery,a brand new Heater Blower, brand new Heater Resistor-Pack. Original Radio/CD/C-Cassette player (which worked fine until last week).
Doors will not lock with the remote, including the Tailgate.
When I turn the Key for the Main Power, none of the marker-lights lit at first, but all The Instrument panel (Speedo, RPM, Fuel-Gauge, Engine Temp-Gauge) meter pointers go around to the maximum then come back and set to their normal position (not the Power Off position) as Power Up (just like they would do when resetting the system), apparently the Glow-Plugs get the Power in the meanwhile , since the engine starts immediately when turned the Key to Start position.
ONLY then all the necessary warning lights (instrument panel back-light and oil-pressure light, seatbelt-light etc appear lit, all this happens as with a delay AFTER the Engine is only running already. Then after a couple of seconds all those lights not necessary go off as they normally should. Wipers, Blinkers, Headlights (HI/LO-beams), Fog-lights heater AirCond, Windshield-heater, El-Mirrors, El-Windows, Rear-window-heater, Cigarrette-lighter, the Roof situated Computer works Fine, EL-Seat functions work properly.
The Car is driveable. The Battery Voltage is 12,7V the Alternator Voltage is steady 14,6V at idle.
The Radio however does not come to life even after the Engine has started and running.

Then, when I turn off all the equipment I had on when driving, park my var in my yard and turn the Power off, engine stops normally the instrument panel goes off normally... BUT, after two-three seconds the whole instrument panel FLASHES full lit, except the warning-lights, and after that Flash, the instrument panel stays off. ...well until next time when I need the car and all the foretold from Turning the Key begins again...

The 15AMP IOD-Fuse was blown... I replaced it, with a 20AMP... only to see that when I turned the Key, it blew again... Didnīt see any point to waste more Fuses, not to mention with Bigger AMPS... as explained later.
Personally... I see no point in replacing a Fuse... ANY Fuse, without knowing what causes it to blow... the Fuses are NEVER the CAUSE/FAULT, they are the effect = a safety device that is there just for the very reason: to prevent MORE damage from the original Fault. besides, I am sure that the Insurance company would not cover my Car BURNING totally, just because I was so stupid that I replaced a 15AMP Fuse with a 45AMP Fuse just to make sure that the Fuse donīt blow and the electricity will have a free passthrough.

So, I would like to know WHAT CAUSES the IOD-Fuse to Blow? The threat starter had a quite similar problem, except that the thread starter did not have her IOD-Fuse blown: She had a hairline crack there, thatīs not a BLOWN Fuse, thatīs a Faulty/Bent/Cracked/Damaged Fuse, I have seen many such in many cars. Such damaged fuses may come even from the manufacturing-line at first place, something may have happened in between it ended-up in the Vehicle, or the Fuse was replaced sometime before and a new one was put in too carelessly/using too much force (not the Star Wars one...), or with a bit too much twist to make it slip into itīs place, all those can make the Fuse get a hairline crack. ...but from the answer, I found NOTHING explaining the REASON for the IOD-Fuse blowing. All there was explained all the places it has a "connection" to = affecting different things, while the anwer should have been WHAT are ALL the instruments gear that can cause the IOD-Fuse to blow.

So, to put it simply: what are they?

 

Apparently No One knows, but everyone THINKS that the Blown FUSE is the Problem/Fault, while it in the REAL world is a Safety device to prevent MORE Problems/Faults/Damages to happen...
Oh My... Great reasoning...
I suggest to try replacing a Blown 10 AMP Fuse in your House, with a 35 AMP Fuse and just wait and see... Remember to buy a A LOT to have a Barbeque with your neighbors with your burning House serving as the Fire needed...