knocking when going over bumps.
hi guys so my grand voyager 2005 is up for a MOT at the end of December,so a few thing is knocking when going over bumps in the road and hand brake.
so do i replace the handbrake cable as to me its not doing the job or is it the rear calipers not working.
and the knocking looks like on lower control arm the bushes are split now is it them they have a nut on the top of it its split all the way round the rubber.
any help would be much appreciated.
so do i replace the handbrake cable as to me its not doing the job or is it the rear calipers not working.
and the knocking looks like on lower control arm the bushes are split now is it them they have a nut on the top of it its split all the way round the rubber.
any help would be much appreciated.
The handbrake doesn't operate the calipers, it operates brake shoes inside the rear drums. The rear drums and discs are a single casting. The pistons in the rear calipers often sieze on these vehicles but that will only affect the foot brake. The handbrake is the achilles heel and needs plenty of lubrication and adjustment to keep it up to MOT requirements. Earlier this year I fitted new discs and drums to the rear of my 2007 2.8 CRD, together with new shoes, calipers and pads. Both calipers were seized and the handbrake was next to useless. I managed to get a pair of new calipers for less than £90 the pair. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/332928024634
The handbrake doesn't operate the calipers, it operates brake shoes inside the rear drums. The rear drums and discs are a single casting. The pistons in the rear calipers often sieze on these vehicles but that will only affect the foot brake. The handbrake is the achilles heel and needs plenty of lubrication and adjustment to keep it up to MOT requirements. Earlier this year I fitted new discs and drums to the rear of my 2007 2.8 CRD, together with new shoes, calipers and pads. Both calipers were seized and the handbrake was next to useless. I managed to get a pair of new calipers for less than £90 the pair. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/332928024634
Last edited by AlanC; Dec 10, 2019 at 09:15 AM.
No, I didn't need to change the cables. You adjust the handbrake by rotating the knurled screw near the brake cylinder which is accesible by removing the oval shaped rubber bung on the back of the brake drum then poking a flat blade screwdriver through thr hole. A bit difficult to explain but if you take the drum/disc off you will see what I mean. This video will explain better but note that this isn't a Chrysler Voyager but it's the same principle. Knurled screw
i always thought that the handbrake needs to only be 3 clicks for a MOT.
- whole large bag of small parts
- many repeat adjustments needed
- cable Y piece (L+R cable) is adjusted by engine on, fkeep hard on foot brake, 3-6 hard pulls on handbrake will pull up clockspring adjustment.
I don't think the number of clicks is relevant. The hanbrake just needs to hold the car on an incline, both facing down the hill and up the hill.
Hears another knocking one often forgotten. Drop links and not wear in the drop links. I'm talking a slack ball joint nut on either side of the link. Had job today to change anti roll bar bushes for knocking as links were relaced few months ago and found one bush hanging out. During process of newal I heard this click type of knock and found one nut at bottom of offside drop link and top nut of rearside link slack. Well tis nice and quiet inside cabin now but think I'll need to torque up these nuts in future. Thing is is there room to get a torque wrench in.
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