Sticky Gearchanges
#11
after 13 years of of excellent service by my voyager 2.5 LX(2000-2013 with 202000 km.)...now with 2006 Voyager CRD 2.5 Manual with Km 66.500 on it (hopefully...) second hand from a Mercedes dealer
They told me they serviced the car (engine and gearbox oil, filters, cooling liquid, etc) before gave it to me.
I'm facing trouble with clutch (a little/medium hard to push, the clutch is taking very close to the floor) and most of all hard gearchanges (all gear but especially 3rd and rs) and most probably both are causing the problem.
I'm quite sure that the clutch has something wrong but the comments about the oil in the gearbox and ...Looking at the Tony37 problems with his garage I was thinking to immediately start with change oil in the gearbox being sure that it will be the right one (thanks glowplug for your detailed explanation) and see what's happen before come back to the dealer for starting the "war " with him.
I would prefer to came back to them with max awareness about the issues...
I'll keep you posted.
They told me they serviced the car (engine and gearbox oil, filters, cooling liquid, etc) before gave it to me.
I'm facing trouble with clutch (a little/medium hard to push, the clutch is taking very close to the floor) and most of all hard gearchanges (all gear but especially 3rd and rs) and most probably both are causing the problem.
I'm quite sure that the clutch has something wrong but the comments about the oil in the gearbox and ...Looking at the Tony37 problems with his garage I was thinking to immediately start with change oil in the gearbox being sure that it will be the right one (thanks glowplug for your detailed explanation) and see what's happen before come back to the dealer for starting the "war " with him.
I would prefer to came back to them with max awareness about the issues...
I'll keep you posted.
#12
I have changed gearbox oil (manual gear) with ATF+4, changed front engine mount ( I have bought rear also but cant find it , changed swaybar bushings and swaybar links.
Now its easier to shift gear (especially from 3rd to 2nd gear).
I have bled the slavecylinder and changed clutch fluid (dot4) , no air bubbles left but after a few strokes it bottoms again my clutch. maybe i will get a solid hose between master and slave cylinder , will post if it helps (will do it when i buy a hydraulic hose that fits).
I have pictures for the gearbox changing plugs for DIY'ers here. The open hole (rubber plug not seen) at top is for filling and the red plug (allenkey as motoroil plug) is for emptying the gearbox.
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...a/IMAG0600.jpg
Now its easier to shift gear (especially from 3rd to 2nd gear).
I have bled the slavecylinder and changed clutch fluid (dot4) , no air bubbles left but after a few strokes it bottoms again my clutch. maybe i will get a solid hose between master and slave cylinder , will post if it helps (will do it when i buy a hydraulic hose that fits).
I have pictures for the gearbox changing plugs for DIY'ers here. The open hole (rubber plug not seen) at top is for filling and the red plug (allenkey as motoroil plug) is for emptying the gearbox.
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...a/IMAG0600.jpg
#13
I have changed the oil in gearbox (ATF+4 Shell from Chrysler dealer in Rome- no way to find MOPAR)
The old oil was very dark red but without dirty.
After about 50 km...changing gear seems a little bit better (I don't think it is a placebo effect...).
I understood that the car was parked for long time and after 250 km also the clutch seems to be a little bit lighter, but still it is taking close to the floor.
do you think there is something to replace? I have read about master and cylinder slave, are there other minor parts in the clutch to look at?
Thanks!
The old oil was very dark red but without dirty.
After about 50 km...changing gear seems a little bit better (I don't think it is a placebo effect...).
I understood that the car was parked for long time and after 250 km also the clutch seems to be a little bit lighter, but still it is taking close to the floor.
do you think there is something to replace? I have read about master and cylinder slave, are there other minor parts in the clutch to look at?
Thanks!
#14
The master & slave cylinder uses DOT4 fluid and it sucks up humidity and gets polluted.
Change the fluid in the reservoar (its above the fusebox on my car) , if you see white particels in it its time to change.
Under the batteri tray ( you have to remove battery and tray) there is the connection between master and slave cylinder, uncouple it , the loose hose has a valve you can press in to drain mastercylinder.
Drain little and refill fresch fluid, drain little more and refill fluid , repeat till all old fluid is drained and only fresch fluid is in the line.
Connect the hose , and if you want you can remove slave cylinder from the clutch housing and pump the piston inside so the air left in slave cylinder hose is moving up and dissapear, the fluid reservoir cap must be open.
Sorry my poor english , dont know english mechanical terms so well.
Change the fluid in the reservoar (its above the fusebox on my car) , if you see white particels in it its time to change.
Under the batteri tray ( you have to remove battery and tray) there is the connection between master and slave cylinder, uncouple it , the loose hose has a valve you can press in to drain mastercylinder.
Drain little and refill fresch fluid, drain little more and refill fluid , repeat till all old fluid is drained and only fresch fluid is in the line.
Connect the hose , and if you want you can remove slave cylinder from the clutch housing and pump the piston inside so the air left in slave cylinder hose is moving up and dissapear, the fluid reservoir cap must be open.
Sorry my poor english , dont know english mechanical terms so well.
#15
Thanks jgb. no problem with your english. everything is clear!
I'll pass the info to my mechanic and we'll check the fluid.
At the moment I don't want to make "heavy" things on the car because the dealer gave me 1 year warranty and just in case...reparation are at his expense.
I'll pass the info to my mechanic and we'll check the fluid.
At the moment I don't want to make "heavy" things on the car because the dealer gave me 1 year warranty and just in case...reparation are at his expense.
#16
Update.
I tested the car for some time but the situation did not improve and so i went to the dealer and...they changed the clutch (at their expense). In particular the fork, they said, was worn. The disk seemed to be still ok but they have replaced it since the box was opened.
Now it works well and also the gear is better, although it is not perfect...it's sometimes sticky when engaging the third, sometimes not accurate when going up and down.
I'm afraid there is nothing else to do with this gear, i think it's a weakness of this car. (Still remember a post about the german gear and the boat engine marriage)
Apart from this...i love this car and i hope it will be ok like the predecessor. Safe and reliable
Thanks everybody for the valuable help.
I tested the car for some time but the situation did not improve and so i went to the dealer and...they changed the clutch (at their expense). In particular the fork, they said, was worn. The disk seemed to be still ok but they have replaced it since the box was opened.
Now it works well and also the gear is better, although it is not perfect...it's sometimes sticky when engaging the third, sometimes not accurate when going up and down.
I'm afraid there is nothing else to do with this gear, i think it's a weakness of this car. (Still remember a post about the german gear and the boat engine marriage)
Apart from this...i love this car and i hope it will be ok like the predecessor. Safe and reliable
Thanks everybody for the valuable help.
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muso58
Chrysler Voyager & Town & Country
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05-31-2006 05:40 AM