2.8crd Limp Mode. Dealer got no idea!!!
Thread Starter
|
Member
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 49
2.8crd Limp Mode. Dealer got no idea!!!
Hi All,
A quick round up below of problems with nightmare 2005 GV Ltd XS with 99k on clock: -
Bought car 9/01/14 private no warranty.
Drove 400 miles no issues.
Took for 100k service at indy garage. Filters and oil etc. Picked up car and it went straight into limp mode 16/01/14
Indy tried to fix but said main dealer only. Assured me they could not have done anything to cause limp mode. (friends garage so I believe them)
Taking advice from members on here I disconnected battery and car worked ok for a while (50 miles). Changed gear but Engine light remained on.
Took car to main Chrysler dealer (Arnold Clark, Oldbury) for 1 hours diagnosis. This turned into wiring check and replacement of solenoid switch pack. Bill now up to £934.
They still cannot get it to work and have had the car for last 4 weeks.
They now say it needs the ECU reprogramming and they need to hire a tool from Snap-on to do this. They cannot get hold of the tool until 27/03/14.
I called Snap-on and they confirmed they do rent out tools for this purpose.
Questions
1. Could re-programming the ECU fix the problem for good?
2. Has anyone else with this engine and box had a problem like this which as successfully been fixed?
3. If the main dealer cannot fix it can anyone suggest anything else?
It's getting really desperate now. May have to sell it for spares as it is totally useless. I cannot understand how a dealer doesn't know how the things they're selling are put together. They told me they were victims of technology!! I've never heard of anything so lame!!! In fact when they tell me in a months time they still can't fix it I'll park outside their premises with that statement in the window.
Any ideas?
Thank you
Mark
A quick round up below of problems with nightmare 2005 GV Ltd XS with 99k on clock: -
Bought car 9/01/14 private no warranty.
Drove 400 miles no issues.
Took for 100k service at indy garage. Filters and oil etc. Picked up car and it went straight into limp mode 16/01/14
Indy tried to fix but said main dealer only. Assured me they could not have done anything to cause limp mode. (friends garage so I believe them)
Taking advice from members on here I disconnected battery and car worked ok for a while (50 miles). Changed gear but Engine light remained on.
Took car to main Chrysler dealer (Arnold Clark, Oldbury) for 1 hours diagnosis. This turned into wiring check and replacement of solenoid switch pack. Bill now up to £934.
They still cannot get it to work and have had the car for last 4 weeks.
They now say it needs the ECU reprogramming and they need to hire a tool from Snap-on to do this. They cannot get hold of the tool until 27/03/14.
I called Snap-on and they confirmed they do rent out tools for this purpose.
Questions
1. Could re-programming the ECU fix the problem for good?
2. Has anyone else with this engine and box had a problem like this which as successfully been fixed?
3. If the main dealer cannot fix it can anyone suggest anything else?
It's getting really desperate now. May have to sell it for spares as it is totally useless. I cannot understand how a dealer doesn't know how the things they're selling are put together. They told me they were victims of technology!! I've never heard of anything so lame!!! In fact when they tell me in a months time they still can't fix it I'll park outside their premises with that statement in the window.
Any ideas?
Thank you
Mark
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 885
As the repair bills are mounting with no results, I'd try the following which will cost nothing and little time.
You say car worked ok for 50mile after hard resetting the micros by a battery disconnect.
Do this again, but don't start it until you've connected another (good) battery across the existing one with jump leads so you can drive it. Careful about polarity, and don't let the bonnet/hood touch the jump-leads clips on the battery. You could route the jump-leads out through the bonnet front and into the passenger window and put the extra battery on the passenger's floor. (I have an extra battery there permanently with perm. wiring).
Carry out a road test to see what happens. If it doesn't make a difference, you've spent nothing. If it does, the remedy is obvious.
On the Jag website I was on previously, a few members had need to change battery due to 'restricted-performance' (same as limp mode). This is what set me off originally for this type of fault. I've never had limp-mode on my GV BTW.
Did you put this posting in the Voyager section?
Leedsman.
You say car worked ok for 50mile after hard resetting the micros by a battery disconnect.
Do this again, but don't start it until you've connected another (good) battery across the existing one with jump leads so you can drive it. Careful about polarity, and don't let the bonnet/hood touch the jump-leads clips on the battery. You could route the jump-leads out through the bonnet front and into the passenger window and put the extra battery on the passenger's floor. (I have an extra battery there permanently with perm. wiring).
Carry out a road test to see what happens. If it doesn't make a difference, you've spent nothing. If it does, the remedy is obvious.
On the Jag website I was on previously, a few members had need to change battery due to 'restricted-performance' (same as limp mode). This is what set me off originally for this type of fault. I've never had limp-mode on my GV BTW.
Did you put this posting in the Voyager section?
Leedsman.
Thread Starter
|
Member
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 49
As the repair bills are mounting with no results, I'd try the following which will cost nothing and little time.
You say car worked ok for 50mile after hard resetting the micros by a battery disconnect.
Do this again, but don't start it until you've connected another (good) battery across the existing one with jump leads so you can drive it. Careful about polarity, and don't let the bonnet/hood touch the jump-leads clips on the battery. You could route the jump-leads out through the bonnet front and into the passenger window and put the extra battery on the passenger's floor. (I have an extra battery there permanently with perm. wiring).
Carry out a road test to see what happens. If it doesn't make a difference, you've spent nothing. If it does, the remedy is obvious.
On the Jag website I was on previously, a few members had need to change battery due to 'restricted-performance' (same as limp mode). This is what set me off originally for this type of fault. I've never had limp-mode on my GV BTW.
Did you put this posting in the Voyager section?
Leedsman.
You say car worked ok for 50mile after hard resetting the micros by a battery disconnect.
Do this again, but don't start it until you've connected another (good) battery across the existing one with jump leads so you can drive it. Careful about polarity, and don't let the bonnet/hood touch the jump-leads clips on the battery. You could route the jump-leads out through the bonnet front and into the passenger window and put the extra battery on the passenger's floor. (I have an extra battery there permanently with perm. wiring).
Carry out a road test to see what happens. If it doesn't make a difference, you've spent nothing. If it does, the remedy is obvious.
On the Jag website I was on previously, a few members had need to change battery due to 'restricted-performance' (same as limp mode). This is what set me off originally for this type of fault. I've never had limp-mode on my GV BTW.
Did you put this posting in the Voyager section?
Leedsman.
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 9
Good Morning
My name is cClaoments
new to the forum and I is not too much or post my topic for someone draws help I French,
I have a problem with the gearbox A604 4 speed Chrysler Voyager 2.8 CRD S4 2006
transmission when the time had led speeds went well up to four, once we remove the foot on the accelerator and the speed is less than the 2 and 3 and we are accelerating the speed of the second block.
Note: The A604 has been repaired completely replace steel and friction disc with overhauld kit (OHK) molded solenoid piston converter block, the restoration of the valve body.
After mounting the gearbox A604, we made the diagnosis (Autel MD802 elite ) we said before diagnosis, information: Transmission is in limp in ???
Error code:
1 * DTCs:
- Error Code: C0015 Relay Output Always Off. (Active)
2 * Trouble code:
- Error code: P29. Missing wheel speed rear left. (Active)
- Error code: P31 missing rear wheel speed right. (Active)
3 * Trouble code:
- Error code: FWD sensor Riser / Out of Range Low (stored)
- Error Code: Charging Voltage / Low Message (stored)
- Error code: sensor before Riser / Out of Range (stored)
- Error code: FWD Riser / Sensor Out of Range (Active).
Our fuse relay center and IPM is written PCM.
he TCM on certain vehicles not written.
and our pcm relay is left just below the large relay
write starter relay.
This pcm relay before there is no power that arrived
we removed all blocks IPM FUSE center of relays, and clean all electrical connectors of the circuit
as PCM below the module conduteur wheel.
connectors blocks solenoid Boitie ECM and electrical outlets.
we redid the mase distribution side, taking mase chassis side rails driver
After instalation battery Volte 12.68.
happened current connector tests against the PCM relay 2 relay oké. (12,67volte)
the speeds of the test vehicle still does not change.
clear the default code
no test vehicle.
diagnosis, even the default code always returns.
ducts open, control files
I believe no files found cut.
The dismantling of ECM connector plugs
there is an issue leaves just inside that melted and went to the connectors on two sheets of ECM
we tried to clean it with a cleaner touch repeatedly
toujour it a kind of school that comes ECM connector plugs
right now we think the problem is with those cards that do not communicate with the ECM and other module and transmission
NB: in diagnostic repeatedly
NB: in diagnostic repeatedly
imposible Autel MD802 to intéroger ECM : ( said )
1. Secure the ignition is turned ON
2. Check the cables between the test and vehicle diagnostics
3.Check vehicle Whether the battery is charged
4. Check if the system is confugured for the vehicle
on line 15. 16. PCM block 17 which is below the driver's side go
Lines 15 and 17 shows, pool from 3.9 volts to 3.7vols
what matters is whether the ECM on this vehicle has a role in the transmission with the other modules, if the current does not fall and ECM station involved to Cole on the connector may be the problem,
and this tester problem is not communicating with the control unit
or when the ECM is off services (hs)
sorry for the bad english
Thank you in advance for your help and compréhenssion.
Best Regards
#2 
Today, 08:36 AM
royal100805
Member
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Poole
Posts: 80
As you have a stored charging voltage error code I would start off with checking that the alternator is producing the correct voltage. You mention battery voltage is 12.67v. Is this with the engine running or not?
__________________
2007 Grand Voyager 2.8Crd Auto Executive XS
#3
Today, 03:05 PM
claoments
Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2014
Posts: 3
Hello: royal100805
Thank you for the time you took to read and respond.
Engine running: battery charging voltage is 13.93 volte stabilized engine idling.
With the engine off voltage of the battery is 12.40 volte
the voltage of the battery before was 12,67voltes engine off
and before the charge voltage of the battery with the engine running
idle time had gone up to 14 and some flip
but today it is 13.93 volts with the engine running
in slow motion
I hope I have answered your questions
I saw on another forum that we must control the two lines of the alternator output regulator liason with PCM on pins 20 and 57
but with testing the scheme I've found only concerns Chryslers until 2002 and mine is 2006 and the colors of the lines does not correspond with 2002
I have on my alternator 2 files controller output 1 brown with a white band, is this happening directly to the PCM with the same crayon?
or it goes by another module.
and the other as black with a brown belt
and given that I can not communicate with the ECM ??
thank you
#4
Today, 03:19 PM
claoments
Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2014
Posts: 3
And just I forgot if it can help you help me solve my problem the vehicle has 263000km, so I do not know if the brushes are worn regulators
or when there is one or more diodes of the generator is not working view of the vehicle kilometer
How to test the alternator regulator
or if someone can help me with an electrical testing scheme latest chrysler
view this link
Chrysler tested Nippendenso Charging System, 1989 - 2002) but does it not for chrysler 2006 and more
Interpreting the Test Results (Chrysler Charging System, Late 1980s – Early 1990s) - Randy's Repair Shop
thank you
My name is cClaoments
new to the forum and I is not too much or post my topic for someone draws help I French,
I have a problem with the gearbox A604 4 speed Chrysler Voyager 2.8 CRD S4 2006
transmission when the time had led speeds went well up to four, once we remove the foot on the accelerator and the speed is less than the 2 and 3 and we are accelerating the speed of the second block.
Note: The A604 has been repaired completely replace steel and friction disc with overhauld kit (OHK) molded solenoid piston converter block, the restoration of the valve body.
After mounting the gearbox A604, we made the diagnosis (Autel MD802 elite ) we said before diagnosis, information: Transmission is in limp in ???
Error code:
1 * DTCs:
- Error Code: C0015 Relay Output Always Off. (Active)
2 * Trouble code:
- Error code: P29. Missing wheel speed rear left. (Active)
- Error code: P31 missing rear wheel speed right. (Active)
3 * Trouble code:
- Error code: FWD sensor Riser / Out of Range Low (stored)
- Error Code: Charging Voltage / Low Message (stored)
- Error code: sensor before Riser / Out of Range (stored)
- Error code: FWD Riser / Sensor Out of Range (Active).
Our fuse relay center and IPM is written PCM.
he TCM on certain vehicles not written.
and our pcm relay is left just below the large relay
write starter relay.
This pcm relay before there is no power that arrived
we removed all blocks IPM FUSE center of relays, and clean all electrical connectors of the circuit
as PCM below the module conduteur wheel.
connectors blocks solenoid Boitie ECM and electrical outlets.
we redid the mase distribution side, taking mase chassis side rails driver
After instalation battery Volte 12.68.
happened current connector tests against the PCM relay 2 relay oké. (12,67volte)
the speeds of the test vehicle still does not change.
clear the default code
no test vehicle.
diagnosis, even the default code always returns.
ducts open, control files
I believe no files found cut.
The dismantling of ECM connector plugs
there is an issue leaves just inside that melted and went to the connectors on two sheets of ECM
we tried to clean it with a cleaner touch repeatedly
toujour it a kind of school that comes ECM connector plugs
right now we think the problem is with those cards that do not communicate with the ECM and other module and transmission
NB: in diagnostic repeatedly
NB: in diagnostic repeatedly
imposible Autel MD802 to intéroger ECM : ( said )
1. Secure the ignition is turned ON
2. Check the cables between the test and vehicle diagnostics
3.Check vehicle Whether the battery is charged
4. Check if the system is confugured for the vehicle
on line 15. 16. PCM block 17 which is below the driver's side go
Lines 15 and 17 shows, pool from 3.9 volts to 3.7vols
what matters is whether the ECM on this vehicle has a role in the transmission with the other modules, if the current does not fall and ECM station involved to Cole on the connector may be the problem,
and this tester problem is not communicating with the control unit
or when the ECM is off services (hs)
sorry for the bad english
Thank you in advance for your help and compréhenssion.
Best Regards
Today, 08:36 AM royal100805
Member
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Poole
Posts: 80
As you have a stored charging voltage error code I would start off with checking that the alternator is producing the correct voltage. You mention battery voltage is 12.67v. Is this with the engine running or not?
__________________
2007 Grand Voyager 2.8Crd Auto Executive XS
#3
Today, 03:05 PM claoments
Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2014
Posts: 3
Hello: royal100805
Thank you for the time you took to read and respond.
Engine running: battery charging voltage is 13.93 volte stabilized engine idling.
With the engine off voltage of the battery is 12.40 volte
the voltage of the battery before was 12,67voltes engine off
and before the charge voltage of the battery with the engine running
idle time had gone up to 14 and some flip
but today it is 13.93 volts with the engine running
in slow motion
I hope I have answered your questions
I saw on another forum that we must control the two lines of the alternator output regulator liason with PCM on pins 20 and 57
but with testing the scheme I've found only concerns Chryslers until 2002 and mine is 2006 and the colors of the lines does not correspond with 2002
I have on my alternator 2 files controller output 1 brown with a white band, is this happening directly to the PCM with the same crayon?
or it goes by another module.
and the other as black with a brown belt
and given that I can not communicate with the ECM ??
thank you
#4
Today, 03:19 PM claoments
Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2014
Posts: 3
And just I forgot if it can help you help me solve my problem the vehicle has 263000km, so I do not know if the brushes are worn regulators
or when there is one or more diodes of the generator is not working view of the vehicle kilometer
How to test the alternator regulator
or if someone can help me with an electrical testing scheme latest chrysler
view this link
Chrysler tested Nippendenso Charging System, 1989 - 2002) but does it not for chrysler 2006 and more
Interpreting the Test Results (Chrysler Charging System, Late 1980s – Early 1990s) - Randy's Repair Shop
thank you
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 9
Hello,
Just say thank you for everything, for help.
In hope that draws its help another person
I finally found the lead that was cut,
was the leading No. 16 out of PCM that went EATX relay internal filaments was cut inside and outside the sheath was well full, not possible to see that the file is divided.
After repair of the cable and any other cable removed,
Blanked defects with the suitcase Altar Elite MD802,
speeds normally spend very soft, no default
No disrespect to Chrysler engineer beams are very poorly done inside
all queues are folded ised,
normal they cut withdrawn when the transmission or engine vibration or ground
thank you again
Happy New Year 2015 to all of you and your family in this forum and out
best regards
Just say thank you for everything, for help.
In hope that draws its help another person
I finally found the lead that was cut,
was the leading No. 16 out of PCM that went EATX relay internal filaments was cut inside and outside the sheath was well full, not possible to see that the file is divided.
After repair of the cable and any other cable removed,
Blanked defects with the suitcase Altar Elite MD802,
speeds normally spend very soft, no default
No disrespect to Chrysler engineer beams are very poorly done inside
all queues are folded ised,
normal they cut withdrawn when the transmission or engine vibration or ground
thank you again
Happy New Year 2015 to all of you and your family in this forum and out
best regards
Last edited by claoments; Dec 31, 2014 at 05:04 PM.
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