So, Do I understand that this thread has turned into a "diatribe" about tool brand names and NOT about tool sizing needs for the task at hand? Did you ever get the axle nut off???

 

What he said, but I did want to make one comment.
A good breaker bar will not bend, the fail points would be at the hinge.
I had a cheap 1/2 drive breaker bar that I bought at a flea market.
That cheap breaker bar held the drivers side front end of my 383 1968 Plymouth fury off the ground when I had a transmission cross member bolt refuse to break loose.
(The other side was on blocks)
I said screw it, and placed a piece of metal on the ground, below the breaker bar handle, and lowered the car so that the weight of the vehicle would break the bolt free.
Guess, what, the nut was tight enough that I literally had to jump up and down on the cars hood until the bolt finally came lose. (You could do that to cars made back then.)
The breaker bar survived unharmed.

If that breaker bar that you were using was flexing under normal human strength, it was a weak breaker bar, the brand name does not matter. The cheap one I used in the above example barely flexed with the weight of a 5000 pound car on it.

My point is.
Quality tools are good, but a tool is useless if it cannot perform whatever job it was designed for.
If you thought the tool was going to break, then you needed a better tool.
If you did not have a breaker bar, then you did not have the right tools for the job. Get one, they are very useful to have.

 

Pretty much same crap I had been saying all along he does not seam to understand that. Bends cheap crap end of story.

 

Yeah, but I figured maybe if one more person commented on it he would see that it was not just some bias you might have, and see it for what it is, the simple truth.
My example simply shows what a breaker bar should be able to do, if it is well built, even if it was inexpensive.
I still own and use that breaker bar almost thirty years later.