Neither fan comes on even after prolonged running or turning the a/c on.
Diagnosis so far:
fan motors work if power run directly to them. Connections all test good back to fuse /relays. Fuse is good and relays appear to be so as well.
Dash gauge is slow to register temp but temp sensor is sending accurate temp (checked by OBD) @ 61 deg C and climbing still no fan (low or high).

Turning the A/C on does not cause any fan activity either. despite outside temp of 93 deg F.

Best I can tell either the PCM isn't sending the signal to operate the fans or there is a break in connection between pcm and fuse box... Am I missing something else? Any help or direction would be appreciated.

 

**EDIT**
Also as I mentioned OBD it is not throwing any codes nor is the check engine light on.

 

get a snap on scanner and have the pcm turn on teh fans sthat will tell you if the PCM wires and relays are all working

 

Low fan should come on at 104º C (220ºF) without A/C being on. With A/C on, the fan should come on at 99ºC (210ºF).

High fan comes on at 110ºC whether A/C is on or not.

If you are reading only 61º C, there will be no fan operation. That seems very low. Did you remove the thermostat?

 

Thanks for those temps. I will let the car heat up further to see if they do in fact kick in. No to the thermostat but did recently replace the radiator. your question makes me wonder if there may still be some air in the system or something. Will re-bleed.

 

If you have a 2.7L engine DON'T TOUCH THE BLEED SCREW!!!!!

It's not necessary and you risk spinning the seat in the plastic housing which will cause a leak and ruin that housing (called the "coolant outlet manifold"). Air will bleed out naturally after a few warm-up and cool-down cycles and you can then top off the coolant as necessary.

You haven't stated anything about overheating. If it's not overheating, don't worry about it.

 

I just had to correct this same issue in a 2002 Sebring LXI Convertible. The issue is that one of the two 30AMP relays in the PDU was bad. I just replaced both of them.

If you are standing on the drivers side of the vehicle, the relays will be the two at the bottom-right. (Closest to you and closest to the firewall.)

The recommended factory replacement was about $15 each but they didn't have them. They did have identical 30AMP five-blade relays in the lighting section for switching on off-road lights for $5 each. (The relays were even numbered the exact same on the bottom contacts.) All I had to do was trim off the 'ears' on the relays so the PDU cover would fit again.

Hope this helps.

 

I have never seen relays be any kinda issue like that. FIrst of all if it were that simple moving the bad relay to something like where teh horn was and pressing on the horn it should not work. dId you do that first? Relays just really dont have that kinda problems because they are covered and also incased them-self and the chance of 2 to fail at the same time is a million to one shot. Fans and or wires are the most likely cause.