Electrical Problem
#1
Electrical Problem
In order to replace parking brake casing, i removed and re-installed the center console.
In doing that I had to unplug: the heated seats, interior light, cig outlet, and the shifting symbol illumination wiring harnesses. I did not remove the negative battery terminal when doing this, and for ease of removal I moved the shifter back and forth.
It started twice shortly after that.
Today though, after leaving the one interior light on, it does not start and it does nothing but click, like the starter is bad. Jump starting it does not work, and there were no signs of trouble like this before. Dash lights, light up but are dimmer than usual.
Solutions?
In doing that I had to unplug: the heated seats, interior light, cig outlet, and the shifting symbol illumination wiring harnesses. I did not remove the negative battery terminal when doing this, and for ease of removal I moved the shifter back and forth.
It started twice shortly after that.
Today though, after leaving the one interior light on, it does not start and it does nothing but click, like the starter is bad. Jump starting it does not work, and there were no signs of trouble like this before. Dash lights, light up but are dimmer than usual.
Solutions?
#2
Original battery? Might be due for replacement.
You can check for a short. To do that, it's best to not completely disconnect the battery. Remove the nut holding the ground terminal on the fenderwell under the hood. Connect your ammeter to the wire and the post, then lift the terminal off the post, thus maintaining the connection while you do so. Your ammeter should show about 0.050 amps or less with the key off and all the lights out. That's the draw represented by the clock and the remote keyless entry receiver, which are always on. If the current is significantly more than that, you have a short or something is on that shouldn't be. Re-check your work at the console for a pinched wire or something like that.
If the current draw is not out of line, and you are satisfied with the condition of the battery, look for corrosion in the starter circuit. Corrosion can inhibit current flow and make you think your battery is dead.
You can check for a short. To do that, it's best to not completely disconnect the battery. Remove the nut holding the ground terminal on the fenderwell under the hood. Connect your ammeter to the wire and the post, then lift the terminal off the post, thus maintaining the connection while you do so. Your ammeter should show about 0.050 amps or less with the key off and all the lights out. That's the draw represented by the clock and the remote keyless entry receiver, which are always on. If the current is significantly more than that, you have a short or something is on that shouldn't be. Re-check your work at the console for a pinched wire or something like that.
If the current draw is not out of line, and you are satisfied with the condition of the battery, look for corrosion in the starter circuit. Corrosion can inhibit current flow and make you think your battery is dead.
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