DC,I was careful! It's not easy! the crank still budged alittle say 1/8 to 1/4 inch but I was quick to move it right back to the marks again, that crank sprocket is something else! Anyway the timing....please help! I took a pic of the what things look like so you can first hand...all 4 cams are on the marks and they have a 12 link spread..and the marks on the primary chain are lined up on the sprockets and crank but on the rear cam hub would have to be turned CW to line up not CCW like the book says and on the front cam it's ok it would need to be turned CCW for line up...I'm stumped not to mention all the white marks everywhere...just out of curiosity I put the old rear sprocket back on just to see if it would match anything....But hey no guessing it's right on this part!! maybe you can see the problem......Oh almost forgot the front cams have dots and triangles and the large cam sprocket has a triangle like the Haynes manual drawing so I deducted that the triangles were the marks I needed to use...I could be wrong...??? the pic in the Haynes manual for TDC shows just dots on that drawing...Dots or Triangles???

 

Here's the procedure from the Shop manual:

Align crankshaft sprocket timing mark to the mark on the oil pump housing.

(Lubricate timing chain and guides with engine oil before installation.)

Place the left [front bank] primary chain sprocket onto the chain so that the timing mark is located in-between the two plated timing links.

Lower the primary chain with the left side sprocket through the left [front] cylinder head opening.

Note: the camshaft sprockets can be allowed to float on the camshaft during installation.

Loosely position left [front] side camshaft sprocket over camshaft hub.

Align timing (plated) link to the camshaft sprocket timing mark.

Position primary chain onto water pump drive sprocket.

Align right [rear] camshaft sprocket timing mark to the timing (plated) link on the timing chain and loosely position over camshaft hub.

Verify that all chain timing (plated) links are properly aligned to the timing marks on all sprockets.



Now, with respect to your picture, it is taken from the left side of the car and doesn't show the timing marks and plated links. There are four plated links on the primary timing chain. Two of them are together. Those two links should wind up on either side of the timing mark on the front sprocket at the 12 o'clock position. The plated link at the crankshaft sprocket should be should be sitting exactly at the timing mark which should be exactly at the corresponding mark on the oil pump housing. This should be at approximately 3:30 o'clock at the crank. The fourth plated link should be right on the timing mark on the rear sprocket at the 12:00 oclock position.

These timing marks and plated links should be visible from the right side of the car. In the shop manual, the timing mark on the front sprocket is depicted as a triangle, the timing mark on the rear sprocket is shown as a dot. The timing mark on the crank sprocket appears to be a semicircular notch while the mark on the oil pump housing shows as a triangle.

Hope that helps.

 

Thanks DC,

When I get in tonight I'll take a pic from the front so yu can see the timing marks...by the way the marks line up no problem...It's that part in the manual that tells you to insert the 3/8 rachet and turn the cam hubs CCW slightly to line up the bolt holes..my problem is the rear cam would have to be turned CW to line up, but the front cam is ok..I guess that's why I ended up taking a pic from the back side...
DC...UPDATE for you:::Pics of timing...However I have another question too....now that everything is complete and the tensioner is released, can I rotate the crankshaft with my rachet to make sure everything is ok?? the next step in the Haynes manual is to install the timing cover....Hey thanks a million for all your help! Oh almost forgot for everyone the front cams have dots and triangles so pay close attention to what your chain is lined up on for the timing..

 

As long as the cams are tied to the crank via the chains, it's ok to rotate the engine. If your timing procedure was correct, everything should be fine. If not, then you're going to bend some valves whether you rotate by hand or starter motor.
If you're in doubt, put some wooden dowels in the spark plug holes so you can watch the pistons' movement, and turn the engine very slowly, a few degrees at a time while observing the cams operate the valves. If you see a cam open a valve while the piston is approaching the top of its stroke, stop and find out what is going on.

 

DC, Sorry for the delay....I've been busy spinning the wrenches! Anyway first let me say this! THANK YOU! you have been an fantastic help to me through this entire project! Thumbs up to ya!! your a true level 10 Tech!
OK, The update, Timing...per your advice I stuck some dowels in the cylinders and hand cranked slowly and watched closely as everything moved checking to make sure that nothing hit!..timing was perfect...this is GREAT money and time saving advice! Doing this saves the "I think it's right"..and then you find out your not...Once I knew the timing was ok I started putting everything back together..timing cover, valve cover's, intake, wiring etc. Then came the coolant..50/50...I looked in the Haynes manual for the amount and filled per the what it said. If you look at the pic you can see I had a hose from the bleeder to a jug to let the air out. I had changed the oil and filter before I hand cranked, so I checked it again to make sure it was ok. So with everything ready I turned the key! heard the fuel pump...pump up...twisted to start......cranking....trying trying trying....running!!! ...I studied everything and after a few minutes took a trip around the block..temp gauge ran up to 2nd notch on the gauge..I haven't heard or seen the fan/fans operate yet so I will check on that tomorrow...anyway runs great! sounds good! love my Sebring!! bought it new in 01! here are the final pics..Thanks again to all for the help and a advice!!

 

Don't ya just love a happy ending?

 

hi, i have a 2006 Sebring 2.7, and want to change water pump, but dont want to mess with timing chain as I do not knwo much about timing chains. Would this be relatively easy job or very technical? I have changed simple water pumps on GM cars without timing chain isses. txs

 

You must remove the timing chain to get to the water pump. If that's beyond your skills, you'll have to pay some one to do it.