Hello all. New here today. I had a neighbor come over last week and tell me "I know you like to work on cars. My wife wants this car out of the driveway. I'll sell it to you for $200. It runs fine but the brakes are a mess". So, OK, a $200 2004 Sebring Convertible that runs. Never wrecked. He promises he did regular oil changes. I'm in.

So first we spent 8 hours detailing it. Turned out pretty nice. (see pics)

So I went to work on the brakes and threw in a new battery. Brakes were the worst I've ever seen. But did hoses/rotors/calipers/pads all around. (more pics)

I was having trouble getting them to firm up so i went ahead and replaced the master cylinder yesterday. Then bled the heck out of them and went to start the car to test them........car won't start.

So now here's where I'm at. Nothing happens when I turn the key to start. No luck jump starting. Turning the key to accessory works. Besides not starting, I have no radio, windshield wipers, power windows, or gas gauge and convertible top button does nothing. Headlights work, AC works, odometer and display seem normal. No codes are being thrown. I'm assuming that in reconnecting the master cylinder level sensor, I fried the ECM??????? I went through all the fuses today and swapped some relays around but no love. Found no blown fuses. Battery is sitting at 12.4 volts.

I appreciate any advice. I see where I can buy an ECM out of a wreck for about $40-$50 but I know it has to be reprogrammed.

I'll be watching the thread to answer any questions you have.

 

Looks nice. How did you determine that there were no codes? Key dance or code reader? If by key dance, you might have better luck borrowing a code reader. There are codes that will reveal a blown computer. There are services on the internet that will swap your bad computer for a good one, all programmed and ready to plug and play. Here's an example:

https://carcomputerexchange.com/

Don't assume a bad computer until you have ruled out everything cheaper. When in doubt, fix the cheapest stuff first.

If you have antilock brakes, those can only be bled using a sophisticated device that bleeds them via the computer. I don't believe that system will prevent starting the car if the brakes haven't been properly bled, but it might.

There are two fuse panels in the car, one under the hood and one behind a cover at the left end of the instrument panel, accessible only with the door open. Behind that fuse panel is the body computer. Most of the stuff you say isn't working goes through the body computer, so that could be the problem. Again, verify before you replace.

Good luck.

 

I verified no codes with a code reader.

I do not have ABS. I'm sure the brakes are cool after I replaced EVERYTHING but the brake booster and bled a full quart through each with a pressure bleeder at 15-20 lbs. I just can't start the car to make sure!

The only electrical connection I removed/replaced yesterday was the brake master cylinder level sensor. I can't believe doing that caused this havoc. I didn't pull the battery cable though because it's behind the damned bumper! - guess I was lazy in hindsight.

I did try to test the EATX Shutdown relay and did not see power to fuse 25 when cranked. I swapped relays around and still did not get power on fuse 25. That was a test I found on the inet. But that wouldn't explain all the other stuff that isn't working.

How do I test the body computer?

Thanks for the help @dcotter0579

 

It's fixed! It was fuse #8 under the hood. Brought all systems back online and started right up. Thanks to 2carpros.com. They identified the exact fuse. I sure thought I had checked all of them but I guess I missed that one!

 

You can disconnect the battery at the jumping terminals on the driver's side spring tower under the hood. Access to the battery itself is via a panel in front of the left front tire. You can get to it without removing the wheel, but it's a lot easier if you raise the car and remove the wheel.