Yeah CT, it's probably a 3.0L Mercedes Diesel. They are still using them outside the US. However, not here anymore because they are HUGE pieces of $hit and expensive to work on. They have even removed them from the training cirruculum. Not to mention a total PITA to work on also.

Tony, you have Mercedes to blame for your headache. Me...i'm glad Chrysler is done with their sorry asses.

 

Perhaps it was uncalled for......BUT......

Go back and read your original post......

The Oil FILLER cap not having a seal will NOT allow "ALL OF THE OIL TO DUMP OUT".....It MAy Splatter out, and make a mess, But it isnt going To Dump ALL of it.......UNLESS......

You say 3.0L????? TN is absolutely correct. It is a ME/BE TURBO DIESEL.
A tidbit of info.....That Motor holds 11 quarts of oil.

A SINGLE quart of motor oil on a hot manifold, will smoke out an entire City Block....But you say it dumped all of its Oil????? You waited for enough of a smokescreen, to empty 11 quarts of oil, before you suspected something was wrong?????

Maybe the tech who did the prep DID overlook it....Maybe Chrysler is to blame, maybe Mercedes is to blame, MAYBE ,MAYBE,MAYBE.....

My Point is there has to be a line drawn between Pointing the blame, and common sense.....Just because I left the seal off of your cap, or Overlooked a missing seal during a prep.....DOES NOT GIVE YOU THE RIGHT TO DRIVE IT THAT WAY UNTIL IT BLOWS UP........

If my comment was out of line, I apologize......But You have as much of a responsibility to your car, as the Manufacturer who has to warranty it.

 

Yes,
I live in England and it seems we frugal Europeans like our diesels.
I take it this isn't a US option? If so, it may account for why I can't find a Diablo Predator to suit the car. With diesel now costing GBP 1.33 per litre, I want to try and improve the fuel consumption and make the car even smoother with more torque.

 

Thanks Djinn-n-Tonic, your apology is readily accepted.
I wasn't actually looking to blame anyone, I live by the maxim that $hit happens anyway and wasn't much bothered as long as they sorted it out.
I don't know how much of the oil made a bid for freedom but there was quite a pool on the ground right outside my friend's door (oops!) when it was discovered. Maybe the exhaust manifold didn't get covered. Some oil must have entered the alternator though because that packed up shortly thereafter although they blamed something called a "fuel bundle" - don't ask!
TNTech's comments are interesting. I like the engine thus far as does my son who introduced me to the 300C. The bad stuff has been things like windows that don't work, a heated rear screen that doesn't, trim which has been badly fitted and all of this is compounded by a dealer workshop which just doesn't seem to try. People criticise Land Rover for bad build quality and poor dealer back-up here in England but my last 3 cars were Discoveries and in 350,000 miles none ever gave me a moment's bother. Luck of the draw I suppose.
Thanks to all for the feedback and if anyone can recommend a good chip to improve my car's performance, I'd be glad to hear.
Cheers.

 

Well, to get back on topic and respond to the original post

Definitely get the car to a mechanic
There could be a couple of reasons why the car won't start
From the engine being seized to to the ecu not allowing the car to start because of lack of oil pressure.....regardless, get it to a mechanic

As far as why the oil is draining out, there could be a number of reasons
bad valve cover gasket
bad oil drain plug
NO oil drain plug
Oil filter not tight
Gasket missing from oil drain plug
damaged oil pan

Everything I've just listed is a simple to moderate repair/replacement as long as the motor is fine

Good luck and let us know what happened

 

We are Going to clear up this MISCONCEPTION right Now....

Mopar vehicles DO NOT incorporate a Low Oil Pressure "CUT -OFF"...

Think for a moment... How much oil pressure is in a motor that is not running??????.....NONE..... So , By that means......How can low oil pressure possibly account for an engine that will not CRANK.....It cannot....

The ECU (We call it a PCM) reads "BUSS" inputs from "Trans range sensor" ..To ensure the vehicle is in park or neutral, Ignition switch position, to see a crank request, and SKIM or Skreem, to see an "ANTI THEFT " "CLEAR" message.......The PCM then Activates the starter relay if all the buss messages meet Criteria.

PCM is responsible for Cranking your engine over....NOT YOUR KEY (Ignition switch).....

Put a breaker Bar on the Crank pulley bolt and see if the engine turns, before pursuing anymore wasted time with USELESS GUESSWORK and Misinformation.

Hell, This thread is 4 months old from a 1 Post wonder......