So, I'm beginning to think that Blue is either cursed or possessed....
With the old tires(245/65R17, wrong size) on, you could really feel the AWD kicking in when turning sharp and accelerating because the front tires were almost totally bald and the rears were almost brand new. That's understandable.
With the new set(235/65R17, the correct size), which all have the same amount of wear, you can feel the AWD kicking in even worse and the traction control lights are lit on the dash. Totally weird....
Ever since we bought Blue, the service tire system message has been showing.
8 days later my youngest daughter curbed it and pinched a hole in the sidewall of one of the new tires....
So I took my jack and an almost bald tire off the parts car and went to the rescue.
Since I put the bald tire(from the '05, which has no TPMS sensor) on, the traction control lights have gone away, as well as the service tire system message and oddly enough..... The AWD barely ever kicks in like it had been.
I'm TOTALLY stumped on that issue, it totally defies logic and the laws of physics.
Speaking of defying logic, the A/C compressor won't engage at all.
The relay is working properly because when I unplug it and plug it back in, you can feel the relay engage and disengage.
This tells me that the system is within parameters and it's letting the relay turn on the compressor.
The clutch reads 3.8 ohms which is within the specs I found somewhere online.
Here's where it gets weird...
There's 13.4 volts at the connector that plugs into the compressor clutch all the time, even with the car off and the key in my pocket.
If someone can make some sense of either of these issues, I would be extremely grateful!

 

Yes, some weird stuff on your '07, even by Pacifica standards. I don't have the AWD, don't have a clue as to how the germans built that. (I do have the electronic traction control on my '05, once got caught out on a muddy road, the traction control was kicking in and out like crazy, don't know if TC hurt or helped, but I do not look forward to having that experience again.)

If your AWD is giving real trouble one thing to consider is disconnecting one or more ABS sensors. Will take away your ABS, but should eliminate the AWD debacle.

In regard to the AC compressor issue, sounds like you have checked all the logical places. The one last thing to try, if you can manage, is to place a multi-meter in series with the AC coil circuit to see if it is drawing 3-4 amps. (that AC compressor is NOT easy to get to.) My own Pac's AC compressor coil went out about a year ago, was intermittent at first, perhaps it or something else in your AC coil circuit is opening up under load.

In terms of the full time 13.4 volts at the AC coil connector, sounds kind of spooky, like the computer doing something that it should not be doing. Always can be wired around, but I am sure you would prefer a proper repair..

PS - DO like the driving lights that you hooked up, they always look cool, like a $500 option from the factory.

 

Thanks, I really like how they look as well!

I've been racking my brain for days and I'm pretty sure I figured out why the A/C isn't working.
I have to wait until morning to confirm my suspicion because I just got home with it, and I'm not sticking my hands in a hot engine bay.
I was looking at the spare oil pressure sending unit I have when I noticed that the unit only has one terminal.
That's when it hit me.
The connector that I have plugged in to the oil pressure sending unit has two wires in it.
The A/C compressor plug has two wires from the clutch to the connector and the connector I have plugged into it from the body wiring harness only has one wire in it.
I'm 99% sure I have the oil pressure connector plugged into the A/C clutch, and the A/C clutch connector plugged into the oil pressure sending unit.

I haven't a clue still about the AWD issue, but I'm not too worried bout that just yet.
I'll let you know tomorrow if my suspicions are right.

 

So, my suspicions were right.
I did have the two connectors plugged into the wrong devices.
Now my oil pressure idiot light is off for the first time since the engine swap. Yay! Lol
The A/C, however, blew the clutch fuse instantly when I turned the A/C on.
I unplugged the connector to the clutch, replaced the fuse, started it, and turned on the A/C.
The fuse held and I had 13.8V across the two terminals.
I shut it off, plugged the connector back in, restarted it and the fuse blew instantly again.
I plugged an identical connector with 18" of wires on it into the compressor clutch so I can check the resistance from the top so it can be checked without having to do it by feel.
I got some really funky readings on my multi meter, ranging from 17.5 ohms to 1.4 ohms(I'm pretty sure my 25+ year old multi meter is on it's way out), but I'm almost positive I have a dead short in the clutch.
3-5 ohms is what I found for specs online, please correct me if that is bad info.
The compressor and clutch on the '05 parts car are both different than the '07's, or I'd be writing to tell you how nice the A/C felt. lol

 

Still have the "test wires" coming up from my 2005 Pac's AC compressor, was getting ready to step out and ohm them. But decided to check the factory manual 1st and found the attached PDF. Probably a better choice than checking the old test wires that I have rigged up, which may or may not yield accurate info.

According to the 2006 Pac manual the resistance should be about 3.6 to 5.5 ohms or so, two different Denso compressors are listed..
Not sure which compressor they put on the 2007's, but its resistance is prolly in the same ballpark.

 

So, today I stripped a bunch of parts off the parts Pacifica and installed them successfully in Blue.

Both front control arms, brake rotors and pads, and outer tie rod ends which I followed up with a driveway alignment using a level and a tape measure.

The steering wheel is level while driving for the first time since we've owned it and it removed 99.9% of the pull to the right.

I also removed the ignition cylinder assembly, the SKREEM, and the drivers door lock cylinder because the parts car actually has both key remotes.

Blue only has one remote key and I'm way too cheap to buy a new one so I figured this would be a great way to remain cheap. Lol

Well.... Daimler Chrysler had a pretty good program to thwart the ambitious DIYer....

A lot of the modules "remember" a VIN, and will not function correctly, if at all, if the VIN doesn't match.

Everything went in fine, the remotes worked fine and the key even started the engine.

Success!!!!!

.....until I put my foot on the brake pedal, when it immediately shut off and displayed "Service Immobilizer" on the left side of the gauge cluster.

So I had to un swap those again.

Then I spent a considerable amount of time tracing the wires in the parts car in the hopes of adding heated seats to Blue.

I took the leather upholstery off the seat completely, and found that the heating elements are glued to the foam and not the upholstery.
I'm thinking heated cloth seats would be awesome and unique! LOL

I traced the wires from the seat that aren't present in Blue's seat wiring.

There are wires that go to the passenger side and ones that go beyond where the drivers door wires diverge, and continue out through the firewall in the main wiring harness.

Since the seat controls are on the door, I traced the wires from the door.

There are a few wires that go forward and a few that go to the rear.

The ones that go to the rear seem to go to each of the other doors, presumably for window control.

None of the wires that come from the door go to the seat, so I'm trying to figure out how to make the heated seat transplant be a success.

I know that models without heated seats have a MSAPM under the driver seat and models with it have a MHSAPM(memory heated seat, adjustable pedal module) and that each door has it's own module and it all speaks to each other through the primary buss(or something like that).

Does that mean that if I swap the MHSAPM and seat wiring, all 4 door panels with modules and wiring harnesses, swap seat foams, and add power and ground to the heated seat connector in the right places and it might work?
Or am I nuts? LOL

 

I have been happily using my Pac's heated seats since 2005. Did not know the level of complexity the german's included in this seemingly simple feature! Holy Toledo! Just read the factory manual, reads like something intended for the Space Shuttle. But nevertheless, heated seats are kinda nice in Houston; would be super up north.
Attached please find the 2005 Pac service manual section for the seats, suspect the wiring remains the same for 2007 models...

 

Thanks djetelina, that does help with how the whole system works!
Would you have a wiring diagram?
I just want to be sure I take all the right stuff from the donor in order for it to work.
Thanks again!

 

Attached please find the Pac heated seat wiring diagram. Chrysler spared no effort in providing plenty of complexity in their seats...
Please note that these pages are from the 2005 factory manual, would believe & hope no changes were made to the 07's.
Good luck in getting em going!

 

Thank you for that!
I'll check it out this weekend.
From what I've seen so far, the wire colors are consistent between the '05 donor and our '07 for the few electrical items I have swapped.
I will let you know what I figure out, I just hope the door modules and the MHSAPM don't require a matching stored VIN in order to work correctly..... Or I'll be screwed. Lol