Best of luck in your efforts! And always remember, a cheap SPST relay, switch and the bare resistive heating elements can always be used in a pinch to route around the uber overly complex CPU driven Daimler-Chrysler heated seat strategy.

 

So, the DDM and MHSAPM do indeed require a matching stored VIN in order to work correctly according to the super knowledgeable service manager at my local Mopar dealership, who I had a half hour conversation with and was given a healthy education about the workings of the computer systems in Mopar vehicles.

The PCM is programmed from the factory to recognize ONLY the modules that are required for each individual trim level and options package it rolls off the assembly line with, and can't have additional modules added to it's memory.

The ONLY way to re-equip/ add options to any Mopar vehicle is to first add all required wiring for the particular options you want to add, then you need a new PCM and you have to buy all new modules, and I mean every last module in the vehicle.....
THEN.... You have to have the modules programmed to the PCM , and vice versa...

So al you need is a fully loaded parts car for the required wiring, between $4,000 and $6,000 for a PCM and every single module, and a minimum of an hour's labor at the stealership to program it all.

Only a select few electrical items can be swapped out that don't have a module controlling them.

I asked him if there was a way I could use the rear heated seat module and switches to heat the front seats.
He wasn't 100% sure, but he seemed to think that the rear heated seat module only needs to communicate with the switches(and not the PCM) and MIGHT be able to be used with the front seat heating elements to produce a working pair of heated front seats.
I'm going to park Blue next to the parts car and run some long jumper wires(for 12 volts and ground) to try to see if my theory would work.

If it doesn't work I'll get two 3 position switches(on/off/on), two relays and an appropriate resistor(to provide reduced voltage for a "low" heat setting) for each of the front seats.

Wow!

On the lighter side of the news, Blue's engine got it's first oil change today at 3,171 miles since the transplant.
There was no abnormal look, texture, or smell to the old oil, so life is pretty good right now! Lol

 

Today I started digging in to the rear heated seat in the parts car.
The rear heated seat module does NOT tie into the white with violet wire, which is the primary data interface that ties the PCM to the other modules and renders them useless candidates to swap, so it was full speed ahead!!!
I isolated and removed all of the wires, the switches, and the rear heated seat module.
The rear seat heating elements have an integrated temperature sensor in them that the front seat heating elements do not, so the front seat elements are a bust.
I also dug in to the front passenger seat, and when I removed the cushion foam there was a tag saying not to separate the foam from the Occupancy Classification Sensor.
Although, even though the foam isn't actually physically bonded to the sensor by any means, apparently it's too late by the time you find the warning.
So I will make sure to leave the foam in place in Blue!
I pulled the heating elements off both rear seat cushions and back rests, layed them out flat, plugged all the connectors in, took the battery out of my Jeep and put power to just the rear heated seat module.
I turned both switches on high, the LEDs lit up, and within 60 seconds I could feel heat in all of the elements!
Success!
Tomorrow I'm going to figure out where on the dash or center console to locate and cut in the two switches and start the transplant!
I'm going to get a roll of that ridiculously sticky double-sided carpet tape to put the elements on Blue's seat foams.
I even got into the fuse box and located the power wire, removed the wire terminal from the connector that plugs in to the bottom of the PDC, and the corresponding fuse in the rear heated seat slot.
That will keep it so it only works in the run position and properly fused, as well as remaining in the proper location in the fuse panel.
Heated cloth seats for a Maine winter.....
This winter just got better already!!!
LOL
The interior of the donor car looks like a bomb went off in it!!!

 

Good going! Some reference info can be found at Pac Tech Ref , should it be of assistance in getting the wiring worked out.

 

Thanks djetelina!
The help you have given me so far has been most of the reason this particular project has come as far as it has, and my hat is off to you!

So, today I spent a huge amount of time finding a space for the two switches.
Not only did I have to find a spot big enough for the switches, but also deep enough to accommodate the connector and wiring for each, as well as a place that has the same curvature as the switches.
After careful measuring I finally found a spot on each side that came as close to perfect as I could hope for.
Then with extreme patience and steady hands, I took the Fein tool out of the work van and cut the holes for the switches.
I kept test fitting the switches and filing the openings to keep the absolute minimum of clearance between them.
Once I was satisfied with the fit and finish of the switches I glued them in place from the back side with Shoe Goo.
That stuff has a tenacious grip and remains slightly flexible after it cures.
Then I spent a couple of hours of trimming, test fitting, and repeating until the two trim pieces snapped perfectly back in place.
I hid the rear heated seat module in the void behind the radio and the cubby below it.
I need to get the power wire into the fuse box and put the heating elements in the seats to finish.
Hopefully I can finish it in the evenings after work this week!

The driver side is all set for the trim piece to go back on. The passenger side still has much trimming left.


The switches almost look like they belong there!

 

So, Blue has been stalling on my daughter for the last few days.
I told her "she doesn't like that crappy music you play" but she didn't believe me. LOL
My daughter works at a local Napa, so she read Blue's codes.
P0404 and P0430 were among the 5 codes.
A little research found that an exhaust leak will contribute to these codes.
Both mufflers have melon sized holes in them so I'm hoping new ones will help.
Mufflers seem to be nearly impossible to acquire locally(midcoast Maine) for some reason.
I found them online and the driver side looks 100% correct, but the ones they all show for the passenger side doesn't look like what I remember it looking like.
They're reasonably priced but still not cheap enough that I want to chance having to deal with an incorrect muffler and trying to exchange it for the right one.
Any guidance is greatly appreciated!

 

Have not had to tackle the PO404 or PO430 codes. But did have a PO420 on my Pac (cat converter efficiency code), that was on for years. Eventually installed piggybacked spark plug antifoulers on the rearmost O2 sensor, has corrected the PO420 code and engine light is off.
In Texas, with no road salt, Pac (and all other modern vehicles) exhaust systems seem to last for generations. Can be had at the junk yards for a song...

 

Exhaust systems have a life span of roughly 5 years up here in Maine, where they use about a 90/10 salt/sand mix on the roads.
Finding good used exhaust parts is about the same odds as being struck by lightning twice.
I can't sing, so I'll never be able to come get an exhaust from your local JY. LOL
The P0430 is a catalyst efficiency code, so I'll give the anti-fouler a try!
The P0404 is EGR performance.
Pretty sure I have a spare EGR valve.
The temperature is slowly declining for the winter, so I'll need to finish the heated seat transplant very soon.
I'm at a standstill on repairing my daughter's Jeep, so maybe I can get the heating elements in and stuff the wire in the PDC tomorrow.

 

So, today I installed the heating elements in Blue's seats, ran the wire into the PDC, and put the fuse in slot #44 and was totally successful!!!
I took the upholstery off the seats just far enough to put the elements in place and used some Super 77 spray adhesive to keep them where they belong!
It is so awesome, I spent quite a long time "testing" them!!! Lol










The top is LO, and the bottom is HI. Both LEDs are on solid and the heaters are working 100%!!!

About 2.5 hours was all it took to finish, including the half hour it took me to figure out that I had put the connection in the wrong space in the connector on the first attempt. Lol
This winter just got better, and it's not even here yet!!!

 

Let me start by saying that the heated seats are just plain awesome!!!

Since my last visit I found a pair of mufflers and installed them. The driver's side is a bolt on unit and the passenger's side is a weld on unit.
No problem there, it took longer to bring out the welder and get set up than it did to actually weld the muffler on.

On my test drive the alternator gave up and the lights went dim and she stalled....
After a half mile walk home to grab the work van, jumper cables, and my wife I went and got it to take a jump start and drove it home quickly.
A new alternator and a new battery seems to have cured the problem so far.
Now the ball joints and tie rod ends I swapped from the parts car are clunking so I ordered a new 8 piece front end kit from Detroit Axle.
It arrived today.
2 control arms, 2 inner tie rod ends, 2 outer tie rod ends, and 2 sway bar links.

Weather permitting, I'll have them all installed
in the evenings after work, although the forecast isn't exactly promising.
After that will be motor mounts....
Yesterday I floored it from a dead stop to avoid being rear-ended(which worked, btw) and it sounded like the engine hit the firewall.
Better to have ruined the motor mounts than to have that big Ford F-9000 slam into the back of us with my granddaughters on board!!!!
I'm really impressed because I stepped on it and it launched like a rally car!
The AWD system definitely fully engaged.
I still have absolutely no idea how there was no contact, I've backed into things that looked farther away than the truck grille did. Lol